Flat_the_3rd_n7th - Posted - 04/14/2025:  15:37:52

One of my instruments has wooden pegs, with a fine-tuner only on the E. I use synthetics on that one.

So, for ease of tuning while bowing the string, I want the A peg to end up perpendicular to the pegbox (after the strings have settled in).

But, when I change strings, it never ends up that way. So, what's the trick? Do I trim off half a turn before threading the string in the peg hole?

I don't care about the D and G, they are no problem.

farmerjones - Posted - 04/14/2025:  18:27:04

If it's off by 90 degrees, I'd start by drilling a hole in the peg 90 degrees from the existing hole. Just slightly one side or the other from the existing hole.

JonD - Posted - 04/14/2025:  18:47:40

No need to trim it, just "shove that pigs foot a little further into the fire".
Might take a bit of trial and error.

farmerjones - Posted - 04/14/2025:  18:56:34

If you do drill a new hole, take an oversized bit and chamfer both sides of the new hole. This makes for a more gentle break for the string.

Flat_the_3rd_n7th - Posted - 04/14/2025:  19:28:59

Don't know about drilling anything, that kinda scares me. Perhaps what I think Jon said--cramming a quarter-turn+ extry thru and letting it flap around against the scroll and D-peg when you first wind it tight?



What, in the .mil service, we used to call the T-LAR method. (That Looks About Right)

Edited by - Flat_the_3rd_n7th on 04/14/2025 19:38:18

The Violin Beautiful - Posted - 04/14/2025:  19:29:37

You don’t need to drill any extra holes. Just change the amount that the string protrudes from the hole by a few millimeters and it will change where the peg head ends up. Some setup people do this with all four strings. I’ve never bothered because the strings stretch over time and the position changes anyway, but with a bit of trial and error, it’s relatively easy to adjust the peg head rotation. I’ve done it for customers upon request.

tarheel - Posted - 04/14/2025:  20:39:58

I would say more attention is needed on the taper of the peg and the hole. It should be very easy to tune if the taper is correct, and the peg fits correctly. Of course humidity is a constant struggle, the best solution is a set of whittner tuners, installed correctly.

JonD - Posted - 04/15/2025:  03:34:15

If you pluck-tune a fiddle on your knee the peg positions don't matter as much, but tuning a raised fiddle is hard unless the pegs are positioned for maximum leverage (especially for us older folks battling arthritis). Here is a video that goes into excruciating detail on this topic (youtu.be/bhUViBoFvnE)

I was trying to be cute with my pigs foot reference about inserting a bit more string, but I will add that you could also insert less string instead of more, especially for the A string where you are up against the end of the pegbox. Or use tweezers to pull on the protruding end.

I found this short video explaining the process of finding the right length youtu.be/AMgKhnQ9lYc?si=CcyvVmndmk81hLyz

ChickenMan - Posted - 04/15/2025:  08:42:26

This is all news to me. What is all this extra effort you all are putting into restringing?

"So, for ease of tuning while bowing the string, I want the A peg to end up perpendicular to the pegbox (after the strings have settled in)."

What? 

Why does this matter?

Edited by - ChickenMan on 04/15/2025 08:42:50

Flat_the_3rd_n7th - Posted - 04/15/2025:  09:38:10

quote:

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Originally posted by ChickenMan

This is all news to me. What is all this extra effort you all are putting into restringing?

"So, for ease of tuning while bowing the string, I want the A peg to end up perpendicular to the pegbox (after the strings have settled in)."

What? 

Why does this matter?

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I suppose my post was not very clear.  I tune while bowing an open string.  In the case of the A, it's much easier to turn the peg head with your left hand if it's perpendicular to the pegbox--more leverage.  The trick is figuring out how to make it end up more-or-less in that position when changing the strings.  It's not really extra effort or even complex, it's just one of those tips that I didn't know what the conventional thinking is. 

Edited by - Flat_the_3rd_n7th on 04/15/2025 09:52:30

Lonesome Fiddler - Posted - 04/15/2025:  12:28:59

I tend to keep my fiddle strings on forever, at least when compared to the maniacal way I regularly change my guitar strings. It's only when the strings' windings come undone that I do the task. In any case, when I change my fiddle strings I do it one string at a time, making sure the other strings have enough tension in them to keep the bridge from falling over. I do it this way to make sure the sound post doesn't collapse and need to be refitted (is that what that dowel that stands beneath the bridge is called?).

UsuallyPickin - Posted - 04/16/2025:  08:17:58

Forgive my ignorance.... why do you not have a suitable fine tuner in your A string? Mechanically, if you string it up and wind up with the peg in the wrong position, Pulling an extra1/4 an inch +/-through the peg hole will assist you with the pegs position.... as pointed out you will have to do it over and over... especially when strings are new. R/

DougD - Posted - 04/16/2025:  09:22:11

I understand what you mean, although I've never thought about it. I use steel strings with fine tuners, and don't tune with the violin in playing position (I never could hold it that way). I just get close with the instrument held vertically in my lap and then make fine adjustments with the fine tuners.
As to your problem, I think I'd follow Rich's advice and experiment with the amount the string protrudes through the peg. Its hard with the A string because its already close quarters and you might scratch the pegbox, but maybe you can bend the end of the string over. I spend more time making sure the string is in a straight line with the slot in the nut (or at an angle that I think will tend to pull the peg in as its tightened). I think I have some pegs with more than one hole, but I didn't drill them. Its tricky to get it centered. I once saw my luthier drill one with a hand drill, holding the peg between his knees, but I'd want to use a drill press with a proper vise.
One thing I've always wondered is if there's something special about the way the end of the string is made that keeps the winding and silking from unraveling. If there is you might lose that if you trim it, but if not I guess you could try shortening it.

Flat_the_3rd_n7th - Posted - 04/16/2025:  12:31:13

quote:

---

Originally posted by UsuallyPickin

Forgive my ignorance.... why do you not have a suitable fine tuner in your A string? Mechanically, if you string it up and wind up with the peg in the wrong position, Pulling an extra1/4 an inch +/-through the peg hole will assist you with the pegs position.... as pointed out you will have to do it over and over... especially when strings are new. R/

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Richard, glad to see you have power and are not underwater after all the rain.  I'm reminded of the Elvis song, "Kentucky Rain."  I don't imagine folks want to hear that one too much.

Anyway, regarding your question, on this particular violin I prefer to keep it traditional because I like the fanciness of the pegs on it and a clean tailpiece (the E uses a "Hill" style fine tuner).  Same reason I prefer Ticonderoga pencils that you have to sharpen.  Nostalgia, I suppose.  My other fiddles have Wittner pegs, which are not as pretty.  I don't consider synthetic strings really that difficult to tune with a peg.  And after they settle, they don't change much.