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 ARCHIVED TOPIC: Helicores Damage Fiddles??


Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.fiddlehangout.com/archive/57031

Creole - Posted - 08/24/2022:  08:12:13


So I read that Helicore Strings are thinner and tend to sink into the nut end of the neck easier than a thicker string. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on this? TY

Brian Wood - Posted - 08/24/2022:  08:23:03


quote:

Originally posted by Creole

So I read that Helicore Strings are thinner and tend to sink into the nut end of the neck easier than a thicker string. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on this? TY






No, I doubt that.

RobBob - Posted - 08/24/2022:  08:56:50


I used to use them but they never did that. I don't like how they interact with the bow. Perhaps if I was a better fiddler that wouldn't be a problem.

DougD - Posted - 08/24/2022:  09:08:36


They are kind of "slinky" and might be easier to press down, but they don't "sink into" the neck. All strings will wear grooves into a fingerboard or fretboard eventually, but it takes a long time.
My small experience is with the medium gauge Helicores.

The Violin Beautiful - Posted - 08/24/2022:  10:56:56


Steel core strings have a smaller diameter and tend to be at a higher tension than synthetics, so they exert more pressure on a string groove in a smaller contact point. However, the difference isn’t all that great, and the strings are unlikely to damage the instrument itself if it’s in good shape.

Steel strings do cut into the bridge a lot faster, though. This is why it’s standard practice to install a parchment under the E string.

KCFiddles - Posted - 08/24/2022:  11:14:53


quote:

Originally posted by Creole

So I read that Helicore Strings are thinner and tend to sink into the nut end of the neck easier than a thicker string. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on this? TY






I've never had to repair a nut because of string wear, that I can remember. Ever. I've shimmed or replaced nuts for various reasons, mainly overzealous filing. IMO, just more BS from people trying to sound smart. Strings do wear and cut into bridges, and they cut into cheap bridges faster. Parchment under the E is a must. 



BTW, some synthetic string sets have a higher tension overall than some steel sets. Steel's modulus of elasticity makes them feel "tighter", or stiffer.

DougD - Posted - 08/24/2022:  11:43:24


Rich and Michael - Are you talking about the fingerboard itself or just the nut? Creole was really asking about the "nut end of the neck,"which I took to mean the fingerboard, although its hard to tell exactly what he meant by that.

Creole - Posted - 08/24/2022:  12:33:31


quote:

Originally posted by KCFiddles

quote:

Originally posted by Creole

So I read that Helicore Strings are thinner and tend to sink into the nut end of the neck easier than a thicker string. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on this? TY






I've never had to repair a nut because of string wear, that I can remember. Ever. I've shimmed or replaced nuts for various reasons, mainly overzealous filing. IMO, just more BS from people trying to sound smart. Strings do wear and cut into bridges, and they cut into cheap bridges faster. Parchment under the E is a must. 



BTW, some synthetic string sets have a higher tension overall than some steel sets. Steel's modulus of elasticity makes them feel "tighter", or stiffer.


Awesome info Michael and thanks. Learning from the experienced is why I asked.




 

Creole - Posted - 08/24/2022:  12:35:20


quote:

Originally posted by DougD

Rich and Michael - Are you talking about the fingerboard itself or just the nut? Creole was really asking about the "nut end of the neck,"which I took to mean the fingerboard, although its hard to tell exactly what he meant by that.






Doug,



 



Mostly just the nut...didn't think the finger board would be an issue with pressure.  The bridge, yea I know those need the tube on the high E and still take a beating across the other strings. 

Creole - Posted - 08/24/2022:  12:36:50


quote:

Originally posted by The Violin Beautiful

Steel core strings have a smaller diameter and tend to be at a higher tension than synthetics, so they exert more pressure on a string groove in a smaller contact point. However, the difference isn’t all that great, and the strings are unlikely to damage the instrument itself if it’s in good shape.



Steel strings do cut into the bridge a lot faster, though. This is why it’s standard practice to install a parchment under the E string.


Niiice  Thank you...




 

DougD - Posted - 08/24/2022:  12:39:01


OK, thanks. The E string needs more than just the little tube. You'll notice that both Rich and Michael recommended parchment on the bridge under the E string.


Edited by - DougD on 08/24/2022 12:46:02

Creole - Posted - 08/24/2022:  12:41:32


quote:

Originally posted by RobBob

I used to use them but they never did that. I don't like how they interact with the bow. Perhaps if I was a better fiddler that wouldn't be a problem.






We all could be better at some point I am sure..  lol   Answering from experience...thanks.  I am playing on Tonicas and miss the slightly higher pitch I get from the steel cores but these TP's are really a pleasure to bow across.  Some what forgiving even for a scratcher like me. 

KCFiddles - Posted - 08/24/2022:  12:45:32


Just a side note: That customer of mine who plays 18, 2-hour shows a week plus rehearsals plus side gigs? I was checking his fiddle over a few weeks ago when I was down in Branson. He's had it a year now, playing solid core chrome-wound steel strings. No visible fingerboard wear. It's a good quality fingerboard, but not cast iron. Good demonstration that fingerboard wear is a reflection of the player, IMHO.

The Violin Beautiful - Posted - 08/24/2022:  23:56:31


The strings wear both the fingerboard and the nut over time. Players with a light touch and/or dry hands will often get a longer working life out of their fingerboards before they need to be planed again, whereas those who sweat heavily or have acidic sweat tend to wear their fingerboards more quickly. It has absolutely nothing to do with playing ability.

As the strings are stopped against the fingerboard over and over, they slowly wear away the material. Eventually grooves develop and intonation becomes problematic. If you look down the fingerboard with a raking light, you’ll be able to see just where the fingered notes have been on a violin that’s been played heavily. Every once in a while the fingerboard needs to be planed to smooth everything out. Eventually the board gets thin enough that it needs to be replaced.

While it’s true that in many cases nuts are improperly made to begin with, it’s also true that the grooves become deeper over time with use. This is easily observed on instruments where the grooves have worn down to the point that the strings begin to wear into the fingerboard itself. Good quality ebony will last longer than poor quality or other woods painted black.

Erockin - Posted - 12/16/2022:  07:10:28


I think I'm about to order some Helicores. My buddy was over and I tried his and our fiddles weren't comparable in sound. Not even close. I'm not sure what style/brand is on mine but I'm going to get these and get the bridge adjusted a little more. My action is slightly high. I imagine my strings are cheap which was fine to start but I'm ready. Cheers

KCFiddles - Posted - 12/17/2022:  16:56:23


I suppose it bears repeating that fiddles vary tremendously, and that tiny details in setup can alter the sound of an instrument radically. I doubt there's an experienced luthier worth their salt who hasn't been called a genius for correcting the fit of bridge feet, or the fit (not necessarily the position) of a sound post, or the afterlength of a tailpiece, or maybe just un-burying the strings from the bridge notches. Strings make a difference, but it's more important that the basics be taken care of first.

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