jefferylong - Posted - 08/13/2011:  21:06:53

I'm seeking any advice anyone might have out there  on best way to mend a warped bridge. 

I've been told that warped bridge can be mended if allowed to soak in water and then let dry and press the warp out.  Curious if anyone has tried this technique and if so your results?  Would appreciate any experience out there with this bridge problem. 

Sincerely,

Jeff Long

Jackson, Tn.

Fethelar - Posted - 08/13/2011:  22:29:00

I used steam from a tea kettle to soften it up then I placed it between two heavy books to hold it FLAT until it is totally dry..

I put it and the books in my workshop that has humidity control and left it there for about a week until I had the time to get back around to it.

I've had to do this twice now and I have been able to get the bridge straightened up pretty well.

The extreme humidity down here is not good on a fiddle bridge that is "leaning" a bit. .

I've had to keep a better watch on any tilt of my bridge since then.

If it does it again, I'm going to replace the bridge as the slots from the "kidneys" have almost closed up .

Keith

albert52 - Posted - 08/13/2011:  23:01:31

Steam is better than soaking.  If you soak the wood swells and takes forever to dry.  Kieth's idea is a good solution.

I have used this method on slightly warped bridges.  If you have a distinctive bend  ")" like this I would just go for a new bridge.

Don't forget when trying to straighten wood this way, some grain fibers may weaken, maybe even break, kind of like a torn ligament.  you won't see it, but it could be there. 

keeping a close eye on the tilt (each time you pick up the violin to play) will help for sure. I do this every time I tune and play.

Keep fiddlin'

AJ

fishingcat - Posted - 08/14/2011:  04:45:48

​I used information gleaned from another post here on this topic.

• 
  ​Steam the bridge (it will flatten out all by itself after 10 minutes or so).


• 
  ​Clamp between flat surfaces (I used two bridge blanks and used a couple of spring clips)


• 
  ​Wait a day or so for it to dry.

Done!

~ Gwen

Reilly-Byrne - Posted - 08/14/2011:  05:57:45

When you notice that the bridge is leaning, do you loosen the strings before trying to straighten it up? I've noticed some fiddlers straighten it up without loosening the strings.

giannaviolins - Posted - 08/14/2011:  06:13:58

Steaming works most of the time. If the bridge isn't damaged. I tend to cut a new bridge for a better instrument - good insurance.

More important is keeping the bridge in the right position to prevent warping. It's OK to do this carefully under tension.

Loosening the strings just hurts the strings and gives an opportunity to pull the bridge forward while they're being tightened.

echord - Posted - 08/14/2011:  06:16:44

I straighten a leaning bridge with the strings tight.

RobBob - Posted - 08/14/2011:  06:33:37

To prevent warpage, I check my bridge every time I play.  The humidity in the south, central and eastern  US can be unrelenting and cause warpage  There is a hold that you can use to straighten your bridge, grasping it firmly but gently between your fore finger and thumb of each hand being careful to hold the entire bridge from bottom to top and pull it slightly backwards.  This is better seen than described.  Go slow and don't do more than you have too or you may slap it down on the fiddle and break something.  The strings are taut when I do this.

StrawboB - Posted - 08/14/2011:  12:25:10

If you're going to move your bridge with the strings tensioned I might recommend placing a pad of some sort, like a small rag, under the tailpiece. If the bridge breaks the pad will soften the blow when the tailpiece crashes into the top.

alaskafiddler - Posted - 08/14/2011:  21:28:00

Yep the steaming works. So does microwaving in a damp paper towel. Also done the trick with taking the steamed bridge and using a hot clothes iron, which did seem to give more lasting results.

But for how long? There is something to the " if the bridge isn't damaged" I've had some that flatten back just fine, but want to keep returning to that warp after a few months or even weeks (like it's now memorized the warp). But my last bridge I steamed and ironed (no starch) has lasted for a few years without coming back. I think part was I caught it early, but it could have to do with (as I recall reading) the actual wood and grain of the bridge.

I agree with the check the bridge every time you get the fiddle out to play, as well I try to check it every time I cross tune. The key to this is being able to detect any slight leaning, as it won't be a lot if done every time. And as it's slight, you don't need to move it but a hair, so can do it with the strings taut. Once you get used to doing this, you don't really need to worry about a rag and the bridge breaking or popping or crashing.

Should mention on checking it every time - look at the feet as well. And, as far as I have read, a well cut bridge should be perpendicular on the backside, some folks find it helpful to use a piece of card stock, like a business card to check it.

Edited by - alaskafiddler on 08/14/2011 21:41:43

Learner - Posted - 08/15/2011:  03:50:43

FWIW:

Not only do I pull a bridge up straight when the strings are under full tension, I even slide the bridge around when trying to fine tune the position of the bridge, with the strings under full tension.  I've never had any problem doing this.

As others have mentioned, there is a way to hold your hands such that you don't cause the bridge to flip down.  I position the fiddle on my lap, with the end pin facing me.  I stabilize my hold by resting the heals of my hands on the fiddle top, then carefully "burp" the bridge into position with my fingers.

I also tend to check the bridge angle every time that I play.  I've been playing around three years now, and have never had a bridge warp.

One trick that helps is to put some pencil graphite in the string slots every time that strings are changed.  This helps the strings to "slide" over the top of the bridge better (theoretically, at least), so that the strings don't tend to pull the bridge forward as much when you tighten them at the pegs.

Best wishes,

Frank

Edited by - Learner on 08/15/2011 03:56:44

bj - Posted - 08/16/2011:  11:30:49

Warping bridges can really warp the sound! You're probably better off just getting it replaced and then keeping a closer watch on it. Ask your luthier if your fiddle will do okay with a harder bridge blank, which is less susceptible to warpage.

jefferylong - Posted - 08/16/2011:  21:42:07

Thanks to all the help. My bridge is back up, straight, and working again. Thanks for everyone's help.

jefferylong - Posted - 08/16/2011:  21:44:54

quote:

---

Originally posted by Reilly-Byrne

When you notice that the bridge is leaning, do you loosen the strings before trying to straighten it up? I've noticed some fiddlers straighten it up without loosening the strings.

---

I've done both.  Of course, it's much easier to move with the strings loosened.  Just takes longer to get back in tune.

jefferylong - Posted - 08/16/2011:  22:00:42

quote:

---

Originally posted by bj

Warping bridges can really warp the sound! You're probably better off just getting it replaced and then keeping a closer watch on it. Ask your luthier if your fiddle will do okay with a harder bridge blank, which is less susceptible to warpage.

---

Do I have to give up the fiddle to get the bridge replaced, or can a new bridge be made without having to send the fiddle off too? I think I could put the bridge back in place without any problem if only I had one that wasn't warped.

jefferylong - Posted - 08/16/2011:  22:03:00

quote:

---

Originally posted by albert52

Steam is better than soaking.  If you soak the wood swells and takes forever to dry.  Kieth's idea is a good solution.

I have used this method on slightly warped bridges.  If you have a distinctive bend  ")" like this I would just go for a new bridge.

Don't forget when trying to straighten wood this way, some grain fibers may weaken, maybe even break, kind of like a torn ligament.  you won't see it, but it could be there. 

keeping a close eye on the tilt (each time you pick up the violin to play) will help for sure. I do this every time I tune and play.

Keep fiddlin'

AJ

---

Yep, it's a pretty distinctive bend, or it was at least.  After soaking it overnight, the bend is gone.  Just not sure how long it will hold.

FiddleDoug - Posted - 08/17/2011:  04:04:23

"Do I have to give up the fiddle to get the bridge replaced, or can a new bridge be made without having to send the fiddle off too?"

You need to send the fiddle in also. The feet have to be fitted exactly to the top of the instrument, and the height needs to be cut to get the strings the correct height off the fingerboard.

projecthog - Posted - 08/17/2011:  07:15:20

Hi folks,

Without the intent to hijack the post, I would like to ask for advice for a first timers attempt to straighten and place the bridge on my C.H. Inese company's gem.

First of all, I am new at anything fiddle, and having the El cheapo gives me the courage to hammer, wrench and jackhammer my way through the gaining of knowledge :)

On my banjos, the bridge has to have the "straight" flat (as opposed to the angled one) to the back of the banjo.
It seems that the bridge on this fine example of Japanese engineering is tapered equal on both front and back, so I may not have to worry about that.
The name on the bridge is to the front, and does that matter now that I've found that it is a symetrical in angles both front and rear?

My main concern is the spacing of the bridge.
Seeing that there are no frets to center on, what would be the criteria for proper placing of the bridge? and is there a guideline for spacing the tail piece also?
I have a (looks like Ebony) fine tuning tail piece on it as you can see in the pics.

The bridge looks warped but it isn't, on checking, I found that the top edge where the strings ride, is slightly off with the way the edge was shaped and makes it look like it is warped, but that's a deception.

Any advice would be welcome, and I will post my next questions on bridges in a new post.

Thank you,
John.

projecthog - Posted - 08/17/2011:  07:20:44

Oops,
The pics were delayed due to a tired pigeon, here they are.
John.

FiddleDoug - Posted - 08/17/2011:  07:45:13

Projecthog,

Your bridge looks kind of like a club. Your "tailgut" looks like a piece of wire. Can't tell about the height of the bridge or the neck angle. Take it to a luthier for evaluation. A good, professional set-up can make a huge difference in an instrument.

bj - Posted - 08/17/2011:  08:06:50

Jeffrey, it depends on the luthier how long it'll take for a new bridge. The guy I used to use would let me drop it off, and go do some stuff, then in a few hours I could pick it up. I think it depends how busy your luthier is. Many will accomodate you. If they can't get to it right away, some have loaner fiddles.

projecthog - Posted - 08/17/2011:  09:12:40

quote: ThanksFD,

I am planning that move soon, The fiddle doesn't play bad, but I think you're right in suggesting that I take it and at least have it looked at.

Thanks,

John

---

Originally posted by FiddleDoug

Projecthog,

Your bridge looks kind of like a club. Your "tailgut" looks like a piece of wire. Can't tell about the height of the bridge or the neck angle. Take it to a luthier for evaluation. A good, professional set-up can make a huge difference in an instrument.

---

Reilly-Byrne - Posted - 08/17/2011:  09:59:49

I had a new bridge cut and put on a fiddle this Tuesday. I gave it to him at 11:30 and picked it up at 12:30. He told me he can do a bridge job in an hour if he doesn't have too many interruptions.

Learner - Posted - 08/17/2011:  13:38:48

quote:

---

Originally posted by projecthog

Oops,

The pics were delayed due to a tired pigeon, here they are.

John.

---

 Wow, that is one really massive looking bridge!  Overly thick. 

Also, the height of the arch on the treble side looks identical to the height of the arch on the bass side. The height of the strings above the fingerboard on the bass side side needs to be higher than the treble side, as the bass strings need greater clearance when vibrating.  So therefore the height of the bridge on the bass side needs to be greater than that on the treble side.

All in all, I'd say that you need to have a luthier make an appropriate bridge that fits your instrument properly.

Best wishes,

Frank

projecthog - Posted - 08/17/2011:  14:12:36

Thanks Frank,

At least you explain what you think and offer some kind of answer with that, I can appreciate that.

Maybe that bridge is off another instrument (wouldn't know what though) or a 4/4 size?
I am assuming mine is a 3/4 from comparing it to a 1/2 and a 1/4 just a while ago in the music shop. Couldn't find a 4/4, so I am still guessing.

I can work with the bridge, but after some searching and reading some posts on that.

Went and bought a set of medium helicores to see what kind of difference that will give me.

Bought a new peg as well as they were in there rather tight and I torqued one into oblivion. Now I know better then to just try and turn them when they are like that and know to tap them with a small hobby hammer to loosen them up.

I couldn't find a reamer either to redo the peg holes, but that is for later.

Anyway, I don't want to continue here on Jeffery's thread, as that would be rude, but thanks for the comment,

Regards,
John.

FiddleDoug - Posted - 08/17/2011:  15:14:58

John,

You can't just buy a new peg and expect it to fit. Both the peg and the hole need to be shaped to fit together. That means that you need both a peg shaper, and reamer. As for the bridge, there's a lot more to it than just buying the correct size, and sticking it in. Each bridge has to be individually fitted to the violin, and cut to the correct height to give the correct string clearances. There are about six or eight other things that go into the set-up. Do yourself a favor and take it to a luthier.

projecthog - Posted - 08/18/2011:  10:15:17

quote: Doug,

I may have given you the impression of rude behaviour in some of the other posts where I mentioned someone said that, and I quoted it was said as it looking like a 2x4.

Please disregard it as a misunderstood read on the meaning of what you said.

You were correct in that assessment, and I hope not to have offended you with my remarks.

Thanks for that reply,

Regards, John.

---

Originally posted by FiddleDoug

Projecthog,

Your bridge looks kind of like a club. Your "tailgut" looks like a piece of wire. Can't tell about the height of the bridge or the neck angle. Take it to a luthier for evaluation. A good, professional set-up can make a huge difference in an instrument.

---