Below is a pic of the tailpiece on my fiddle. I've been using synthetic core strings for a bit and would like to try steel core. Looking at this tailpiece it looks to me like the fine tuners will only work with ball-end strings. Is that correct?
Assuming they only work with ball-end, I'm wondering what strings to buy. I think I'd like to try Prim Medium but the specs on them say "ball-end E". Does that mean the other three are loop end?
All answers, tips, and general educational comments thoroughly appreciated.
-Ken
Prims all have ball ends.
You are correct, looks like a Wittner that only takes ball end. You could put a loop on one side of the tuner, but it would quickly break.
They specify E since that's typically the string you can get either ball or loop. The rest will be ball end.
I'm not aware of any string sets that offer loop G/D/A (for violin).
quote:
Originally posted by learn2turnBelow is a pic of the tailpiece on my fiddle. I've been using synthetic core strings for a bit and would like to try steel core. Looking at this tailpiece it looks to me like the fine tuners will only work with ball-end strings. Is that correct?
Assuming they only work with ball-end, I'm wondering what strings to buy. I think I'd like to try Prim Medium but the specs on them say "ball-end E". Does that mean the other three are loop end?
All answers, tips, and general educational comments thoroughly appreciated.
-Ken
String manufacturers specify ball or loop E with sets because of the two main styles of tuners. The other strings have ball ends unless they're natural gut. If you order Prims with the ball-end E you'll get what you need for your tailpiece.
The Wittner tailpiece is designed for all four strings to be ball-end, but almost all tailpieces are designed for ball ends. It's just the choice of fine tuner on the E that changes things.
The only time I've ever seen a loop was on an E string.
Thanks for the info. I ordered the Prims from Fiddlershop. Will probably take a few more days than Amazon but I'd rather buy from a violin store.
Ken,
The "ball" is closer to a small spool. Looking at the picture, all the strings but the E string seem to be running straight through the claws. When the spool is not resting centered in the claw, the string can get pinched and can break. Yes, I broke a new string. I wasn't happy. I learned from that.
Eudoxa has loop end for G,D,A.
quote:
Originally posted by DCHammerEudoxa has loop end for G,D,A.
Lol, but those are gut strings. I've never met a fiddler who used gut strings, except maybe a reenactment participant.
The E strings I've seen as loops were the only string left attached on what were gut stringed fiddles (other strings were still in the pegs but broken). But those strings don't attach the same, they're tied on aren't they? I'll be right back.
Okay. Here's what Pirastro has to say about the strings:
Eudoxa A-strings come with a ball,
D- and G-strings have a knot.
The E-strings are available with ball- or loop-end.
Edited by - ChickenMan on 04/17/2025 14:20:12
I should add, they were on 100+ year old fiddles
Playing on real guts is like using rubber bands, to me. So floppy!
quote:
Originally posted by wrench13Playing on real guts is like using rubber bands, to me. So floppy!
Which ones did you try? I have had good luck with wound Tricolore bass/plain Academie sheepgut treble. Not flabby at all, and very rich sounding.
I started on gut strings (Pirastro Gold label) because the old violin I bought looked like it had had its neck broken out at one time, and I didn't want to put too much stress on it. Dominants were still fairly new then, and the only choices I knew of were gut or steel. That fiddle is in its case near me right now, with Prim strings and add on fine tuners and seems fine.
I think Jenny Cleland always used La Bella gut strings on her bass too.
quote:
Originally posted by wrench13Playing on real guts is like using rubber bands, to me. So floppy!
If you get into it enough, you'll find that gut strings come in all kinds of gauges. Period instrument players obsesss over this, and some swear by the idea that strings should be selected so that all four strings end up under equal tension. There is a common misconception that gut is low tension, but this isn't necessarily the case given that gauge can vary so much. Thinner strings are typically lower tension, so if you've tried a set like that it might have felt floppy after using steel.
Must have been that guys. I did go from steel to gut but honestly I was a pretty new player then and had no idea of what gauge was, the strings were given to me. Likely guts would not suit now, 1/2 of our gigs are outdoors, 1/2 indoors. This past week we played in awful conditions, cold and drizzle, my banjo's skin head was so floppy it was useless. The Dynamos held up fine, as they always do. I get 7-9 months out of a set, then they lose some of the balls and go down pretty quickly.
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