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Ok, this is how it went. The old violin I bought and that is perhaps a real JTL with lowered neck came with a funny bridge, a very low one with not very precise incisions for the strings. You can see that the one who adapted the bridge first got it wrong and then made new incisions. I once used sandpaper on this bridge to make it flatter, but today it felt like I did take off too much, it came to my mind it was good that the strings were closer to the fingerboard but after I have been playing this fiddle for a couple of days it feels like the strings are a tiny bit too close to the fingerboard now.
Today I noticed the still brand new looking bridge that once belonged to the cheap 90 euro VSO , the Stagg instrument that was also still in a case somewhere. And suddenly I thought you know what , I can't **** up more than the one who made the funny bridge with wrong incisions did. So I took out some precision file and yes slowly started to take some of the wood of the highest part and a bit of the lowest part so that to my feeling it would fit.
I changed the bridge , tuned the fiddle and here we go. And it feels like now I can play it like I can play my good fiddle : without having to think where to put my fingers when taking double strings for example.
Did I actually do this?
Is it dangerous?
Was it stupid?
Please add your thoughts on this! I will see if I can take some pictures tomorrow by daylight.
Edited by - Quincy on 12/12/2024 10:10:58
Here is the result in sound. I do not know how you best can show the sound of a violin, I just tried to give an idea...
Edited by - Quincy on 12/12/2024 10:37:12
Bridge height will not harm a fiddle, but having the feet not match the curvature of the top plate perfectly will. Great for causing cracks under the bridge feet. THe few times I did this, I put a piece of carbon paper over the top plate, and carefully rub the bridge feet on that, in the correct bridge position. High spots will show as black while spots not touching the top will be plain. The goal is to have the entire foot surface come back 100% black.
Wait I need to use a translator on this text... Edit: ok I see ... well in the worst case I ruined a fiddle that was not too pricey hehe. If I understand well... I will only find out after a while? Or do you see the black spots immediately?
Edited by - Quincy on 12/12/2024 10:46:19
Is there some kind of video on this ?
You can compare it to the one on you other violin and see that the top looks extra tall. The feet really should contact to top fully. That is what Al was getting it. Nothing is ruined until/unless one of feet create a pressure point because it isn't properly smooth. Imagine pressing a sharp bit of very hard wood into the not so hard spruce top. That's the potential damage that could result in a crack. Look on YouTube for "fitting a violin bridge" for visual instructions.
YouTube is my first choice for answers to nearly all hands on questions, from Auto mechanical to Zamboni operation.
I am carefully rewatching the Olaf video on how to fit a bridge...
At least the symmetry looks ok...I'll take this one to the luthier also when I have to go pick up my good fiddle! PS:sorry for the chat attitude in this topic... I am just trying to check this. Luthier is the best I can do maybe. I wish I could write a fiddle tune, something titled These bridges look all alike :-p
Edited by - Quincy on 12/12/2024 11:39:59
quote:
Originally posted by wrench13Bridge height will not harm a fiddle, but having the feet not match the curvature of the top plate perfectly will. Great for causing cracks under the bridge feet. THe few times I did this, I put a piece of carbon paper over the top plate, and carefully rub the bridge feet on that, in the correct bridge position. High spots will show as black while spots not touching the top will be plain. The goal is to have the entire foot surface come back 100% black.
Finally I can picture this, it took me several attempts . Thanks a lot , now it makes sense :-)
Quincy - The most important part of fitting a bridge is that the shape of the feet fit the curvature of the top as perfectly as possible. This is for the maximum transmission of the vibations, but also to avoid gouges or possible cracks in the soft top if the string pressure is concentrated unevenly. The carbon paper method Al suggested is a good way to get close. You should check this as soon as possble - don't wait for a trip to the luthier. The black spots will be immediately visible as you work.
Of course there are YouTube videos that show how to do this - just remember "Don't believe everything you see on the Internet." There are also websites that may have better information.
Quincy, fitting a bridge is a tricky thing at best for a newbie, i'd get a few cheapo ones from CHina and practice on them. A really sharp straight edge knife or better yet a scalpel is used to scrape (not cut) away the high spots ( the black areas) until the whole foot comes back entirely black. Make sure the bridge stays perpendicular to the top too, or it will sit wrong from front to back. Violin luthiers have tools and fixtures to make this easier, quciker and more reliable, but doing it by hand is possible. Have fun!
For good information on cutting a bridge, here is a good place to start. Not everyone does it exactly this way, but it explains the essentials better than the YouTube videos:
trianglestrings.com/carving-a-...n-bridge/
The problem is at the moment I do not have carbon paper neither a correct knife.... What if I just tune it low to play a bit safer as by way of speaking and wait for the luthier? (I really have a problem NOT to play :-/ I just can't help it, I love it so much and I am working on interesting tunes) My good fiddle could be ready soon. I brought it to him on Monday I believe. I asked besides a solution for the broken fine tuner of the good fiddle and a cleaning of the instrument for a titanium A string together with a new set of Helicores, he might be just waiting for that A string, because he did not have a titanium one on stock. I will give him a call tomorrow. Suddenly it kind of scares me off to go any further with this experiment at least for this violin! If there is any instrument that I don't care for to ruin it would be the black Stagg thing that is now lacking a bridge and some strings.
Edited by - Quincy on 12/12/2024 17:37:48
Why not go back to the bridge where the strings are just a tiny bit too low for now?
Also, I'd recommend you keep some spare strings and a few small spare parts on hand. Giving up a fiddle just to have the strings changed is silly, and you can change a fine tuner yourself in about five minutes.
Fitting a violin bridge may seem like a daunting task when you look at a site like Triangle strings (who I'm sure do an excellent job) but remember that the people who do it are human, just like you - they just have training and experience (hopefully). As far as tools, you can do a lot with a good sharp pocket knife, and a set of X-acto knives and some small files (which I guess you already have) are very handy too.
PS - Fiddles actually very rarely need "cleaning" if you take care of them.
I am guilty for the rosin part Doug :-D It will look a lot better after he used his products on it. He was not going to completely clean it by removing everything, but he thought a bit of cleaning would do well for the fiddle.
I've also tried using very fine sandpaper or emery cloth over the top, rough side out, and rubbing the bridge, again really carefully, side to side just a tiny bit to get the curvature. That works but is easy to screw up - dont ask how I know.
lol AI !!! I can feel you here haha!
Since the sandpaper method for fitting bridges has been mentioned, I feel duty-bound to link these old classic “instructional” videos:
youtu.be/v1XXuo3hv6U?si=nE7uW1Y_s-yYbET3
youtu.be/ijfo8MpbAus?si=8J4IYQDHDiazXoGR
Just for context, David Burgess, the luthier in the videos is one of the most highly esteemed violin makers in the world who is known for his unapologetic obsession with precision and workmanship. Although these videos were made in jest, they are unfortunately not too far off from the extremities of some of the abominable DIY violin repair content posted on YouTube.
Rich, you gotta put a strong caveat after those 2 videos! DON'T DO THIS AT HOME! OR AT ALL !! or someone will say Hey that's a great idea! You know someone will.
quote:
Originally posted by wrench13Rich, you gotta put a strong caveat after those 2 videos! DON'T DO THIS AT HOME! OR AT ALL !! or someone will say Hey that's a great idea! You know someone will.
I thought the same thing.
quote:
Originally posted by wrench13Rich, you gotta put a strong caveat after those 2 videos! DON'T DO THIS AT HOME! OR AT ALL !! or someone will say Hey that's a great idea! You know someone will.
I just ordered an extra large machine to move the bench back and forth. Now t figure out how to fix the violin. :-)
Monday I will pick up the good fiddle at the luthier, I called him he will also have a look at the old instrument and the bridge that it now has. I do love this old violin <3 At least it is easy to tune and the pegs stay where they should once tuned. It sounds very appealing. It is not always easy to show this in a recording but I adore it. That it is an old instrument is extra charming.
quote:
Originally posted by martyjoequote:
Originally posted by wrench13Rich, you gotta put a strong caveat after those 2 videos! DON'T DO THIS AT HOME! OR AT ALL !! or someone will say Hey that's a great idea! You know someone will.
I just ordered an extra large machine to move the bench back and forth. Now t figure out how to fix the violin. :-)
Well that has the makings of a fine ethnic joke there Martyjoe! How many ************s does it take to fit a violin bridge? 10. 1 to hold the bridge and 9 to move the table back and forth! Yuk Yuk!
Edited by - wrench13 on 12/15/2024 16:23:45
Or drummer joke, or bass player joke... Banjo.... Lol
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