Recently I have noticed that my e string is cutting into the bridge. At what point has it gone too far, and what can be done to fix it without hurting the sound? Also, if it needs fixing is this something that needs to be done by a professional? Thanks
My fiddle doctor, and I, use a small piece of banjo skin (i.e. real skin) glued, with simple glue, to the bridge where the E string will be.
You can use parchment paper in the same way as Carl describes. I think those little plastic tubes on some e strings also serve that purpose
The little tubes that come with the e strings work for me, as well. Do they ruin the tone? Naaahhhh. Not a whit.
I don't believe the little plastic tubes are meant for that purpose, at least according to a string manufacturer's website (although I routinely use them). Parchment (aka banjo head) is the way to go.
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Originally posted by DougDI don't believe the little plastic tubes are meant for that purpose, at least according to a string manufacturer's website (although I routinely use them). Parchment (aka banjo head) is the way to go.
I've always used those little plastic tubes to protect the bridge . So, just asking, what do the manufacturers say ther for?
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Originally posted by bluegrassfiddleRecently I have noticed that my e string is cutting into the bridge. At what point has it gone too far, and what can be done to fix it without hurting the sound? Also, if it needs fixing is this something that needs to be done by a professional? Thanks
The rule of thumb is that a string should sit no more than 1/2 its diameter in a groove, 1/3 according to some. As it cuts into the bridge, vibration is impeded and tone suffers. When this happens, the solution depends on several things. If the string heights are high, the bridge can be lowered and the grooves can be recut if needed to make them a more appropriate depth. If a groove is too deep, in some cases it can be filled in and recut. If there are multiple issues with the bridge, you're better off with a new one.
Parchment is the best material for E strings for tone and structure. The plastic or rubber tubes that you find on some strings are just there so that one can prevent the string from cutting into the bridge if it doesn't have a parchment installed. If you have one, throw the tube away. The tubes inhibit the strings even if you place them according to manufacturer suggestions (extending 1mm above the bridge).
To be sure everything is set up properly, visiting a luthier is best.
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Originally posted by The Violin Beautifulquote:
Originally posted by bluegrassfiddleRecently I have noticed that my e string is cutting into the bridge. At what point has it gone too far, and what can be done to fix it without hurting the sound? Also, if it needs fixing is this something that needs to be done by a professional? Thanks
The rule of thumb is that a string should sit no more than 1/2 its diameter in a groove, 1/3 according to some. As it cuts into the bridge, vibration is impeded and tone suffers. When this happens, the solution depends on several things. If the string heights are high, the bridge can be lowered and the grooves can be recut if needed to make them a more appropriate depth. If a groove is too deep, in some cases it can be filled in and recut. If there are multiple issues with the bridge, you're better off with a new one.
Parchment is the best material for E strings for tone and structure. The plastic or rubber tubes that you find on some strings are just there so that one can prevent the string from cutting into the bridge if it doesn't have a parchment installed. If you have one, throw the tube away. The tubes inhibit the strings even if you place them according to manufacturer suggestions (extending 1mm above the bridge).
To be sure everything is set up properly, visiting a luthier is best.
Thanks for the info Rich, this raises another question. Is it better to have a violin bridge with or without the ebony insert for the e string?
Stumpkicker - They said they were "tone filters" to reduce the shrillness of the E string. I may have been thinking of the little rubber "doughnuts" that also come with some strings, but I can't tell now. The compamies have changed their websites and there's far less information available - especially Pirastro. Here are a couple old threads from Violinist.com where all this is discussed, including the ebony inserts: violinist.com/discussion/archive/15859/
violinist.com/discussion/archive/28423/
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Originally posted by stumpkickerThanks for the info Rich, this raises another question. Is it better to have a violin bridge with or without the ebony insert for the e string?
It's better without. Theoretically, the idea of a piece of harder wood where the E string belongs isn't bad, but it ends up being problematic in practice for several reasons:
First, the manufacturers pre-make the blanks with the insert, but that does not mean that the insert will end up with the E string in the middle of its area. This just looks bad, and if the E isn't even on the insert, it completely defeats the purpose.
The ebony insert is harder than most maple used for bridges, but even ebony can be worn through by the E string, which is thin and under about 16-19 pounds of pressure at pitch.
Since the insert is glued in, it's something that can come loose and fall out even if it isn't cut out by the string.
Unfortunately, the bridges that have an ebony insert are among the cheapest bridges, which means they get some of the softest, least selected and properly quartered wood. None of the blanks that are used by competent luthiers have these inserts because if you know how to properly cut a bridge, you're expected to know how to install a bridge parchment. There are some makers who have experimented with making inserts of their own, but this is not the norm.
So with all that in mind, it's better not to use a bridge with an ebony insert because it doesn't work quite as intended and it only comes on a bridge blank that is of low quality.
