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ARCHIVED TOPIC: Bridge

Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.fiddlehangout.com/archive/58408

Hobbiest - Posted - 10/13/2023: 14:23:30

Any advice for cutting a bridge for a harsh bright (cheap) fiddle?

UsuallyPickin - Posted - 10/13/2023: 15:58:53

Move the sound post a bit, if you haven’t already.

Hobbiest - Posted - 10/15/2023: 07:07:50

There was a post a while back including bridge trimming with different areas and tone affects. I haven't been able to find it. It was in a reply, basically an illustration.

wilford - Posted - 10/15/2023: 09:27:16

Maybe this is the topic you were thinking of:
fiddlehangout.com/topic/58124

DougD - Posted - 10/15/2023: 10:23:51

Here's a page of pretty thorough instructions on how to carve and fit a bridge, from a reputable shop: trianglestrings.com/carving-a-...n-bridge/
Don't know if that will answer your question though, which I suspect is a bit of an oversimplification.

Hobbiest - Posted - 10/16/2023: 14:46:27

Found it. This greatly helped retuning the bridge after repairing another crack.
violinresearch.com/acousticala...t_046.htm

fiddler135 - Posted - 10/29/2023: 17:16:22

quote:
Originally posted by TPJ54

Any advice for cutting a bridge for a harsh bright (cheap) fiddle?

Just fit the feet to the top, and leave all the wood you can to mute vibrations. If it is harsher on the treble side (probably is) you could try removing some mass below the g and d strings to help the balance.

This is just what I would try. If it works let me know. I'm no professional luthier by a long shot. It's free advice, but it's worth what you paid for it. Also bridges are cheap.