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<title>Fiddle Hangout - Product Reviews and Shopping Advice Forum Feed</title>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com</link>
<description>Fiddle Hangout - Product Reviews and Shopping Advice Forum Feed</description>
<language>en-us</language>
<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:30:00 CST</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:30:00 CST</lastBuildDate>
<webMaster>eric@fiddlehangout.com</webMaster>

<item>
<title>Choose You Favorite Color-3 New Horner Violins</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13575</link>
<description>I went down to the Westal Conservatory as we call it around here to see the master builder himself. These were on the workbench. Click on each photo for a close up. 

http://charlesjhornerviolins.blogspot.com/2010/03/three-violins-in-progress.html</description>
<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:30:23 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Brian Wickland's 2 Volume (Book, CD, DVD)</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13568</link>
<description>I purchased Brian Wickland&#8217;s 2 books (with CD and DVD) a couple months ago on advice from my teacher.

Supposedly Brian Wickland was (or is) part of the Prairie Home Companion band.

I'm about 15 months into my fiddle journey. Never touched an instrument before I started.

I have bought a dozen or so books, including Gordon Stobbes (12 things for right hand) and Craig Duncans.

I have been taking lessons once a week since I started too.

I must say I have got more out of these 2 books than anything I've done.

The CD's are a joy just to listen too even just for entertainment, especially volume 2. I was playing them at work and co-worker immediately asked what they were with great interest.

Brian&#8217;s DVD that covers bow grip and bowing is just as good as Gordon Stobbe&#8217;s but different.  He uses a different approach in explaining.  I like Gordon&#8217;s slow motion but Brian very nicely shows him switching back and forth between (wrist action &#8211; he calls active wrist) and longer bow strokes where you lead with the wrist (he calls this passive wrist).  Brian also keeps his pinky on the bow.  But he uses the pinky to help explain that you have the right motion.

I feel he got me over a couple big walls with the wrist and now I feel I&#8217;m on a whole new instrument and have to go back through all my tunes and relearn them using proper wrist.

Brian also helped a lot with the left hand.  So many people say get your elbow under.  I even tied a bungey cord from my left elbow to my right belt loop.  That was not the problem.  I always thought your finger nails should be as close to parallel with the strings as you could to minimize touching unwanted strings.  I thought that&#8217;s why you want your elbow over as much as you can so your left hand could come in sideways to the strings.  I had that all wrong.  You really come in at 45 degree angle (or some where around there, boy does that make it easier knowing that).  Your hand comes in from the top as much as it does from the side (very natural position).  This is where Brian&#8217;s DVD helped a lot (he often uses the phrase your finger nails should be like looking in a mirror &#8211; facing you when you look at them).  Another piece that cleared it up for me was when he was doing drones and saying you need to scooch your finger over so you don&#8217;t hit an unwanted string.  Yikes, that&#8217;s what I was doing when I first started but I thought that was all wrong and it was because my fingernails were not parallel to strings was the reason I had to scooch.  It also hit home when I saw my teachers fingers with permanent grooves on his finger tips at 45 degrees !!   To get my left hand correct (it&#8217;s far from perfect but much better) I just focused on playing on the ABSOLUTE tips (until they hurt, then play on them more), you do that and everything else falls into place (their should be no white on your finger nails). Again Brian explains this nicely with facts. You want to use the BONE in your finger tip to compress the string for good sound. Not the mushy pad of your finger. 

If you are starting out I can&#8217;t say enough about these two books, get them with CD&#8217;s and DVD&#8217;s. Best $50.00 you&#8217;ll ever spend on the hobby.
</description>
<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 09:26:23 CST</pubDate>

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<title>String Cleaner - Need Information</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13547</link>
<description>When I first started playing, my instructor recommended that I protect my instrument and clean my strings using alcohol.  Later I started using a piece of pantyhose and it works very well.  I have a couple of questions for an experienced repairperson -

1.  Is the liquid string cleaner sold commerically any better than alcohol ?

2.  Like I said, I clean my strings with a small piece of pantyhose when I finish playing.  In addition to doing that, would cleaning the strings every couple of weeks with a liquid solvent help maintain the playing condition of the strings ?

Edit - Well, lots of people have ways of cleaning their strings.  But I still don't know if the cleaning solvent is any better than alcohol or if cleaning strings every coupld of weeks ago will keep them any cleaner of rosin.
</description>
<pubDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 10:54:30 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Any Experience with Samuel Shen violins</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13546</link>
<description>I was wondering if anyone out there has played any of Samuel Shen's violins and their opinions on them.  I am planning on buying one in the next couple of months.  My instructor showed me the instrument and played it some for me when I mentioned that I was thinking about getting another fiddle.  I loved the way it sounded, and next week I am planning on going back to the store so that I can play around with it some.  From what I understand the quality of the instrument is comparable to what I would find on one that would sell for double the price.  Any experiences or opinions, good or bad, on this maker would be appreciated.
Thanks</description>
<pubDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 09:11:37 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Comparison of two fiddles</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13540</link>
<description>I have on you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQ6KWZ45VP4  a comparison of two fiddles and am interested in comments.  OK right off the bat I admit to rushing the tempo--a hard bad habit to break.  But what we have is a 5 string Song ti je fiddle right off the plane from China,  I put Superflexible strings on it and am comparing it to a 130 year old American made fiddle I have had for 20 years.  The bow is a pernambuco bow probably from China.  The song is a version of I'll take you home again Kathleen.

I am interested in comments about the two fiddles.  Remember one is a 5 wstring new box and the other is 130 years old with well broken in strings.  I like them both and can't decide which is better.  So many people say older is better.  I am not so sure.  This is a good demo of what is coming out of China.  I bid on this model three times before I got it.  It took 7 days to arrive.

</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 9 Mar 2010 18:55:33 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Possible Earsel Atchley Violin Pictures Attached</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13526</link>
<description>Hello, 

I posted some information about a violin I purchased. Here are some pictures. I appreciate any opinions about makers etc. for this violin. Also, do you think the line on the back in the first photo, top is a significant crack/separation? It doesn't appear to be to me but I don't know too much about repairs or even if it is damage or just a line of the seam. Thanks!</description>
<pubDate>Mon, 8 Mar 2010 18:03:29 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Earsel Atchley Violins?</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13518</link>
<description>Hello,

I recently purchased a violin adorned with images of angels, foxes, and jester masks. It's an unusual instrument with no label inside. It has a very light finish and appears to be semi-old (maybe 50 years old or so). It was purchased in Kansas. Inside the case was a newspaper article about Earsel Atchley. The person that sold it to me claims it was from an estate and that it is one of his instruments however I am skeptical. Has anyone ever seen an instrument of his? Did he often add images to his instruments? Do you know of any American makers that added these types of images to their instruments? 

Thanks</description>
<pubDate>Mon, 8 Mar 2010 04:36:54 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>CD Review: Backwoodsman's Reel</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13496</link>
<description>I did some shopping in CD Baby's sale bin and came up with a great fiddle CD for $5. It's by Brad Solon (a name I don't recognize) and is called [url=&quot;https://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bradsolon&quot;]Backwoodsman's Reel[/url]. Even at the regular price of $12, it's a good buy, and being in the sale bin it may be in short supply.

Some of the tunes are short but there are 26 of them. Overall the tune list has a Canadian or Northwest flavor and includes tunes like Cabri Waltz, Rickett's Hornpipe, Angus Campbell, Fred Meilleur, Fourth of July Waltz, Mouth of the Tobique, and of course the title tune. There's one called &quot;Ned Landry&quot; that sounds a lot like Whiskey Before Breakfast.

There are no liner notes other than the tune list and the usual credits. If anyone can tell us a little more about this fiddler, I'd sure appreciate it.</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 6 Mar 2010 08:40:27 CST</pubDate>

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<title>Corelli Strings</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13478</link>
<description>Anybody try Corelli strings?  I broke my Dominant G string after cranking it up one too many times to A, and figured I might try something new.  Supposedly, they have a Kevlar core...which might come in handy when playing in rowdier venues.</description>
<pubDate>Fri, 5 Mar 2010 10:25:15 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>buying a bow</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13386</link>
<description>I am a beginner looking for a better bow. What is a bow? Why the expense, what are the aspects of quality of a bow that is very expensive versus its inferior.  What should you look for? Thanks!</description>
<pubDate>Sun, 28 Feb 2010 15:17:52 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Sebastian Gohz Amati in Classifieds</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13365</link>
<description>Hi folks,

I'm curious about the Sebastian Gohz Amati recently posted in the Classifieds. The description sounds appealing to me, but I have no real knowledge of or experience with Amati copies. All my fiddles have been Strad types. Something a little different might be nice, but I'm a bit concerned about the supposed smaller size and higher arch of the Amati copies. Seems to me like that might add up to a softer and sweeter sound than I generally like (not the way this instrument is described, though). As a point of reference, I don't usually like Stainer copies that I've heard or tried. Anybody have any insight to share on Amati-style German trade fiddles like this?

Thanks in adavance. [:)]

&lt;font color=&quot;blue&quot;&gt;Moved topic from Swap Shop forum - wormbower&lt;/font id=&quot;blue&quot;&gt;</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 27 Feb 2010 08:50:09 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Dampits Humidifiers</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13359</link>
<description>How many of you use these [url=&quot;http://www.dampits.com/index.html&quot;]Dampit humdifiers[/url]?

I just got a couple myself.  It says they're for violins, but I figured they might also work for fiddles.

Cheers,
Tom</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 27 Feb 2010 07:10:41 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Band in a Box</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13351</link>
<description>I have just gotten this program, and had I known its limitations with compound time signatures, I would have never purchased it. Unfortunately, because it was purchased as a reward at work, the money isn't refundable.

Just so the other folks know what is up with this, the program doesn't support 6/8, 9/8,12/8,5/4, or other common compound time signatures. What it makes you do is write as a 2/4 then add a swing or &quot;triplet feel&quot;.  If you want to notate something or import it as a 6/8 forget it, you have to try and find a &quot;style&quot; in the style list to hopefully match something you want to play.  (doesn't do a decent job at strathspey rhythm in any style setting) Trying to have sheet music written via the program is a nightmare in these compound time signatures... 

The tech support is first rate, very nice folks- it was nice chatting with them as they told me it was impossible to do what I need the program to do.

Save your money for something else if you commonly play these compound time signatures.

</description>
<pubDate>Fri, 26 Feb 2010 16:51:19 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>What to pay for a broken fiddle.</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13337</link>
<description>I'm trying to buy a Maggini copy in need of repair at a local shop.  The owner wants me to make an offer, but I don't want to lowball him too much.  He says a knowledgeable friend of his says it's worth $400-$500.  I think it's a German or Czech copy, but the label is in rough shape...  it has some separation, and a top crack, but otherwise is in nice shape with relative tight grain and a nicely matched flamed back.  It's &quot;blonde&quot; with a little checking, and nice double-purfling.

Basically, I have an offer from a luthier friend to oversee my work and I need a good donor, but I don't know what to pay for an &quot;old wood&quot;  fiddle that needs love.

Any advice?

Thanks guys!


</description>
<pubDate>Thu, 25 Feb 2010 11:41:57 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>dpa microphones</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13326</link>
<description>I play bluegrass and sound and feedback are always an issue.  I see mountain heart using the instrument mounted dpa microphones.  &quot;this type mount may be bluegrass legal&quot;.  I think they are fairly new.  Does anyone use these mics.  I see they are $600.00 each.  what do you think of them?</description>
<pubDate>Wed, 24 Feb 2010 21:00:20 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>violin vs viola</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13302</link>
<description>Is there a viola that is the same size as a 4/4 violin? If so how does the sound compare?
</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:30:02 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>blues instructional video</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13301</link>
<description>Anybody bought the Darol Anger blues video? If so, any good?</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:19:39 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>violin shops</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13300</link>
<description>I will probably look in nashville tn for my fiddle.
 was wondering if anyone has dealt with the violiinshop or nashvilleviolins.
They both look like they have a good selection to try out. 
If you know of any other shops let me know.
I will  have about 800 -1000 to spend for fiddle and bow.
I am totally clueless as to what to look for. I know I want to play gospel,bluegrass,oldtime,irish type of music.
I would rather hear the instrument in person then on the phone. I am about 80 miles from there so it wont be too bad a trip. 
kathy c in ky</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:17:46 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Strings. Helpl</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13293</link>
<description>I have a string hangup - a thick A string bothers me so bad I can't play them.
It seems I have to have the strings go from E thin to G thick in almost perfect proportion or I can't play. Super Sensitive are Ok but the D sound is not good and the attack is poor. I used to use a brand of ropecore that were perfect, they all had blue windings. I can't remember the name. I've never used Prim, they LOOK right. Unfortunately these type of guaged strings are more metallic sounding. I'd like the Helicore-Thomastik sound without the the big A. I've even thought of getting Helicore Med E &amp; A, then Helicore Heavies D &amp; G to &quot;level&quot; things out. Anybody else have this hangup?</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 23 Feb 2010 15:26:56 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>14&quot; viola</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13291</link>
<description>I'd like to get a 14&quot; viola to mess around with and possibly convert to an octave fiddle some day.  Do all of them have taller rims than a standard violin or are some just a standard violin with viola strings?  I have a lead on an Eastman VA-80, would that be a good candidate?

Eric</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 23 Feb 2010 15:20:39 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>buying a fiddle to play Irish</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13265</link>
<description>Is there any sort of fiddle advised for beginning Irish fiddle players?</description>
<pubDate>Mon, 22 Feb 2010 08:47:32 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Jaeger Double Violin Case Availability?</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13231</link>
<description>I am attempting to help Charles Horner obtain a double Jaeger Violin Case. Are these still in production and where are they available new or used? 

Thank you, 

chuck[:)]</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 20 Feb 2010 15:15:32 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Tonerite for fiddles</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13218</link>
<description>Maybe it's because I'm a newbie, or maybe because I didn't search correctly, but I can't find any threads about the Tonerite for violin here at the FH. Which is surprising, since the topic has been covered extensively on other guitar and mandolin forums. 

So if this is a new thread, anyone got any experiences with this product for fiddles?  

Thanks.    [:)]</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 20 Feb 2010 07:41:55 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Long Bow</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13186</link>
<description>I was on a site that sold used instruments and bows,  and they mentioned some bows that were extra-long.  I am tall,  and have long arms.  I seem to use the whole bow,  sometimes to the last few millemeters.  Would I be a candidate for one of there?  Also,  what is the standard bow length,  and how long is an extra-long?</description>
<pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2010 02:20:47 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>New Bow Disappointment</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13163</link>
<description>My cheap bow that came with my fiddle started to warp, so I thought I'd get a new one.  I ran across a great deal on a Jon Paul Bravo and I ordered it.  It plays smoother than the old bow but it makes my fiddle sound thin.  I know, I know, I should have tried one first but I had heard such good things about the JPB.  Oh well, I guess I'll have to buy a fiddle it sounds good with. [B)]

Eric</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 16 Feb 2010 16:27:33 CST</pubDate>

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<title>The Fiddler's Red Book of Scales &amp; Arpeggios</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13096</link>
<description>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/reviews/search.asp?m=m&amp;v=1051&amp;redir=true

Just submitted a review of Gordon Stobbe's book &lt;i&gt;The Fiddler's Red Book of Scales &amp; Arpeggios: 150 Exercises explaining and exploring these major building blocks of Fiddle Music&lt;/i&gt;. 

Simply put, I've had it three days, and, for me, I think it's a keeper.</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 13 Feb 2010 07:48:55 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Red Label &quot;super sensitive&quot; Violin Strings OR..??</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13091</link>
<description>My Instructor just put a new set of strings on my Fiddle..Red label sensitive...she's been using them forever..she's satisfied so that makes me happy too..My question-concern is..she asked me to always have a new set of strings in the wings as back up...well I have a friend who owns a music store and he gave me 2 sets of  &quot;Tempo&quot; brand..GOOD or BAD IDEA???? Of course I didn't tell my Instructor yet...YIKES!!!

&lt;font color=&quot;blue&quot;&gt;Topic moved from Playing Advice forum - wormbower&lt;/font id=&quot;blue&quot;&gt;</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 13 Feb 2010 03:24:55 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>[Purchase Review] KCStrings - woodwiz</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13054</link>
<description>[url=&quot;http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/11848&quot;]Here[/url] is my original thread asking for advice in purchasing my first violin. 

About a month after posting that thread and looking around locally, I decided it might be easiest to contact woodwiz and see if he would be interested in helping me pick out my first violin.  I chose him because I liked what he had to say in the thread.  He wasn't trying to sell to me and had the sort of approach to the question that seems right to me.  

As I indicated in the thread, I was looking to spend up to $600 on my first violin.  He responded to my email and told me that he had two violins in mind that might be good for me: a German Violin from the turn of the century which he had rebuilt and was selling just the violin for $600 and his typical beginners setup which he was selling with the bow and case for $400.  

I initially expressed interest in the German violin.  He responded back, very sensitive to my initial indication that $600 was how much I wanted to spend, that a full setup on that violin was probably outside of my price range and that he thought the other violin was a better bet for me.  He also sent me a recording of the German violin just so I could listen.

A few days later he sent me another email saying he finished setting up the blue-stem starter violin and that he was really impressed with it's tone.  To quote:  

&lt;blockquote id=&quot;quote&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;1&quot; face=&quot;Verdana, Arial, Helvetica&quot; id=&quot;quote&quot;&gt;quote:&lt;hr height=&quot;1&quot; noshade id=&quot;quote&quot;&gt;Here's a great sounding Bluestem outfit, the one I was talking about.  It's my starter fiddle outfit.  They all sound pretty good, but this one is exceptional.&lt;hr height=&quot;1&quot; noshade id=&quot;quote&quot;&gt;&lt;/font id=&quot;quote&quot;&gt;&lt;/blockquote id=&quot;quote&quot;&gt;

He also sent me pictures and a recording of this one.  He indicated the price for this violin, fully setup and in a case, was normally $660, but right now he had them for $400.

I had him ship me that violin to try.  $15 and I could send it back with no strings attached.  It arrived very well packaged and in perfect condition.  I played it a bit and really loved it.  Admittedly, I don't have much experience with violins, but I am an experienced musician otherwise, and this struck me as a great deal.  It had all of the accoutrement of a quality instrument and I mostly liked it's tone.  Good fine tuners, good strings, well fitted, easy to tune pegs, and a really nice case. 

I decided to keep this violin, but if in the future I decide I want an upgrade he will give me a $300 credit on just the violin, which seems like a great deal to me: if I understood him correctly (and woodwiz, correct me if I'm wrong!) I'll keep the bow and case, which together seem to easily have at least a $100 value.

All-in-all woodwiz was an excellent person to buy from and strikes me as an all-around good guy.  I intend to use him for any future upgrades or purchases, and I would highly recommend him to anyone else who is looking for a stringed instrument. 

It really impressed me that he knew I would spend up to $600 (and probably a bit more if he tried to convince me) but instead found me a good starter violin for 33% less than my maximum price, and then gave me the discount that I knew nothing about.  He could have easily sold me this violin for $600 and I would have been happy and not known any better.  He showed real class and integrity in the way he dealt with me.  I couldn't imagine walking in to a local music shop saying I had $600 to spend on a guitar and walking out with something better than I expected for $400.  

Thanks again woodwiz.  You're the man in my book.  
</description>
<pubDate>Wed, 10 Feb 2010 12:26:19 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>String suggestions</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13037</link>
<description>I always like to keep an extra set of strings with me.  Can you suggest a brand and gauge I should consider?  Thanks.</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 9 Feb 2010 08:19:27 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Scott Cao STV-600???</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13032</link>
<description>I just tried a Scott Cao STV-600 locally.
It's $695, but I don't know if that's the price for the complete outfit or just the violin.
From what I see online, I'm guessing it's just the violin.

I liked it a lot, but I'd heard good things about the West Coast Strings Rosalia model.
Anybody tried them both???

I used a sister bow to the one I bought just before New Year's, and maybe it's lightened my touch, because I was actually able to play the synthetic strings successfully for about the first time in my life!!!  The bow also had less rosin on it than the one I bought, and maybe that helped.
More grab seems to be something steel strings need.
The thought also occurred to me to play mostly waltzes and Irish tunes which seem to inspire me to lighten up on the bow as well.
The violin definitely seemed to inspire me to go in different directions!

Anyway, are there any other new instruments out there that are a better value than the STV-600?</description>
<pubDate>Mon, 8 Feb 2010 21:11:57 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>SAS Chinrests</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/13030</link>
<description>Hi folks,

Anybody else tried out SAS chinrests? I was looking for a high chinrest, and I ordered a few of these to try from Johson Strings in Newton, MA. They seem very well made (in Slovenia), and fit perfectly, but the single-clamp design has me a little worried about stability and safety.

http://www.johnsonstring.com/cgi-bin/music/scripts/violin-viola-cello-music.cgi?itemno=CHVASASROHG_B35&amp;action=2

Thoughts?</description>
<pubDate>Mon, 8 Feb 2010 20:05:52 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Two violin markets</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12999</link>
<description>I'm relatively new to the violin world, but it strikes me that there are two very clear markets. There's the general market 1x (ebay, private sales) and then there's the violin shop market 4x+. I've never seen this kind of bifurcation before where identical instruments can have such differing values. Granted, on Ebay, violins often need repair. Violin shop fiddles tend to be in excellent condition, sans cracks. But even so, it's possible to buy a trade fiddle on ebay in excellent condition for $300. That same fiddle in &quot;Johann's Expensive and Snotty Violin Shop&quot; will go for $3500. 

Go figure.

RB</description>
<pubDate>Sun, 7 Feb 2010 12:04:56 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>American James Carpenter Violins</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12992</link>
<description>We have #64, dated 1911, James Carpenter violin, Peace Dale, R.I.. It had remained in one family thru 2009 and was played regularly until the last few years. Are there other Carpenter violins out there - any history on them? (#80 - 1916 is in Brooklyn))</description>
<pubDate>Sun, 7 Feb 2010 06:05:19 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>kennedyviolins.com - anybody purchased from them?</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12978</link>
<description>

I'm an adult beginner thinking of buying my first fiddle.  I've been doing some comparison shopping online and came across Kennedy Violins on the shopping links of Fiddle Hangout.   I am interested in their Ricard Bunnel G 1 Violin, as it's about the max I can afford to spend.  I can't find any reviews of this shop anywhere.   Has anybody bought from them? 

Thanks!</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 6 Feb 2010 10:52:07 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>on-line shopping in europe</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12974</link>
<description>can anyone recommend an on-line vendor here in europe?  these people are great - http://www.thomann.de/gb/index.html - but they don't have what i'm looking for (inexpensive baroque bow.)

thank you - bill</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 6 Feb 2010 03:38:51 CST</pubDate>

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<title>Metronome for a Beginner</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12939</link>
<description>Okay, am shopping AGAIN.  My teacher suggested a Sabine, her's is an ancient model, but thought any of them would be fine.  One of my FHO friends suggested a Seiko Quartz M380 and a Sabine Advanced Zipbeat.  In googling this, OMG there are tons, Boss, Korg, etc.  Thought I'd throw this thread out there and see what all you folks use and recommend.  Keep in mind here though, I am a beginner.</description>
<pubDate>Wed, 3 Feb 2010 13:17:24 CST</pubDate>

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<title>Yamaha Carbon Fiber Bows</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12914</link>
<description>I think they are &quot;Yamaha,&quot; but I can't find the boxes in which they came.  Anyways--I bought one for $200, liked it, so I bought one more (last in the store).  These bows, comfortable in the hands,  make my fiddles sound better; moreover, everyone who plays my fiddle/bow set up seems to comment on how much they like the bow.  These carbon fiber bows, so the salesman said, usually go for hundreds more.  Anyone have any experience with them?</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 2 Feb 2010 07:43:23 CST</pubDate>

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<title>Tal Holbrook</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12900</link>
<description>I just won a Tal Holbrook fiddle. He is a fiddle maker from Wilkes county NC. It looks, plays and sounds great. I was just wondering if anybody else has played one, what they think of it</description>
<pubDate>Mon, 1 Feb 2010 16:26:55 CST</pubDate>

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<title>finecases.com problems?</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12869</link>
<description>Has anyone ever ordered from them? I ordered a case a week ago and besides the confirmation (automated) email, the only human response I've gotten is when I emailed to ask about my order status. The response was that they would look into it and I haven't heard back. This was three days ago. I'm getting nervous because I checked their address on Google maps, and it shows an old white frame house in Tennessee. I'm considering stopping payment if they don't respond by Monday. Seems like a site that drop-ships and doesn't really have any stock or a warehouse.[:(]</description>
<pubDate>Sun, 31 Jan 2010 10:22:20 CST</pubDate>

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<title>New CD of old Idaho fiddling</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12856</link>
<description>Sometimes it pays to lose your entire CD wish list at CD Baby. Then you start all over and discover a bazzillion new titles necessary to your future existence. Like this one:

[url=&quot;https://www.cdbaby.com/cd/otisdave&quot;]Idaho Old Time Fiddling[/url] by Otis Howard and Dave Frisbee.

Recorded in 1963 on rell-to-reel tape, this collection is newly published by [url=&quot;http://www.bonafidaho.com/idahosongs.htm&quot;]Idaho Songs Project[/url]. That is a fascinating website in its own right, especially for you fans of obscure CDs! Gotta update my Fiddle Claus blog.

Along with the CD comes a small book telling the history of Otis Howard (1887-1981) the fiddler and Dave Frisbee (1917-2006) the guitarist on this recording. Otis came to Idaho by covered wagon in 1899. Dave Frisbee was also a fine fiddler, as is his son Rue today.

Many of the tunes are un-named -- some names had been forgotten, others were probably Otis Howard's own tunes. There are lots of hornpipes, waltzes, and schottisches. Named tunes include Grey Eagle Hornpipe, Cripple Creek, Eighth of January, Sally Gooden, East Tennessee Blues, Boilin' the Cabbage, Arkansas Traveler, West of the Rockies waltz, Mighty Pretty Waltz, and others. I particularly like Otis's version of Cripple Creek.</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 30 Jan 2010 13:16:03 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Gut strings</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12826</link>
<description>Thinking of ordering some gut strings for my fiddle.  Any comments, likes dislikes or whatever.  May try just an E gut.</description>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jan 2010 09:28:50 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Buying Time</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12824</link>
<description>In general, what would be considered a reasonable period of time to have a fiddle on a&quot;trial period&quot;?
I would like to consider this question in general before talking about why I am asking.

Thanks.
Ron</description>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jan 2010 08:19:05 CST</pubDate>

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<title>Left Hand Violins</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12765</link>
<description>With regards to fiddle playing, there may only be a few players out there who may have stayed true to there south-paw orientations. Probably because every one wants us to play right handed. I have started as a left hand player and remain committed to continue in my pursuit to learn to play as well as I can...

Now, are there a few companies who don't grip about producing left hand violins, chin rest, etc. Who are they... and do they make shoulder rests for left handed players, and left handed violin cases... And... what is the general level of quality with the left handed violins that are produced for a smaller market...</description>
<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jan 2010 12:33:22 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Concord cases?</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12715</link>
<description>I want to upgrade my case, and am looking at the finecases.com website. Has anyone tried a Concord case or know whether they are as nice as they look?
http://www.finecases.com/browse/concord-cases/concord-cases-2360.html

My other choice would be a Bobelock:
http://www.finecases.com/browse/bobelock/bobelock-4055.html

Concord is Chinese, Bobelock is Phillipine made. Both have a one year warranty.

I really don't want to spend $300 for a case, $200 - $250 is as high as I want to go. Six months ago I bought a sale case from International Violin for $85 and one of the snaps tore out within a week, so not going that route again. Any advice?
Thanks,
Brian</description>
<pubDate>Sat, 23 Jan 2010 09:27:13 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Shoulder Rest Impacting on Sound</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12703</link>
<description>Here is a link to an article which discusses the possibility that the type of shoulder rest one uses can have a significant impact on sound.  

I always did suspect that the problem was my shoulder rest and not me.

http://www.stringsmagazine.com/article/default.aspx?articleid=25377</description>
<pubDate>Fri, 22 Jan 2010 06:56:50 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>New Bow Wanted</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12696</link>
<description>Can a half decient bow be bought for under a $100=150? Any advice?

&lt;font color=&quot;blue&quot;&gt;Moved from Playing Advice forum - wormbower&lt;/font id=&quot;blue&quot;&gt;</description>
<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:33:19 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Digital Recorder for Beginner</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12689</link>
<description>I would love for someone to recommend a &quot;middle of the road&quot; digital recorder for a beginning fiddle player.  Everyone says &quot;you have just got to record yourself in the beginning and all along the way.&quot;  Even my fiddle teacher harped about this.  I've read threads on FHO and some like the Boss, but thats too pricey.  Anyone feel comfortable recommending a lower level digital recorder?  My fiddle teacher indicated I could probably find something in the $50 range, but I'd sure rather purchase one someone had some feedback on.  About the only thing I know I want, is for the unit to have a built in speaker so I can playback my fiddling without putting on headphones.  As always, I thank you in advance for your thoughts and opinions on this topic.

pattik</description>
<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 12:31:16 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>A Good Article Regarding Violins</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12686</link>
<description>I came across this article today while doing some researching and found it insightful as to what is important to classical violinists. I think the contrasts between the needs of classical and traditional fiddling will become apparent considering how the classical music is written and the demands placed on the instrument. While a bit long, it was a good read. 

http://www.zaretandsonsviolins.com/goodtoneviolin.html</description>
<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 10:11:56 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Bear Paw Fiddles?</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12672</link>
<description>Has anyone had any dealings with Bear Paw Fiddles in Alameda, Ca.?  They seem to have some nice old fiddles and mandolins listed on their site.

Thanks!

Eric</description>
<pubDate>Wed, 20 Jan 2010 13:07:13 CST</pubDate>

</item><item>
<title>Humidification help</title>
<author>eric@fiddlehangout.com</author>
<link>http://www.fiddlehangout.com/topic/12668</link>
<description>Hey everyone; a couple questions for you all:

First, does anyone have a good recommendation for a hygrometer for my fiddle case? I need something that will accurately tell me the level of humidity in the case, rather than the analog dial that came with the case, which I'm not confident in.

The other question I have is about actually humidifying the case: right now I am using both the built in humidifier (a green dense foam semicircle that I soak in water every week or so) and a homemade supplement to that humidifer (a piece of kitchen sponge soaked in water and put in a film canister with holes punched in the top), but in spite of the fact that both sponges are still a bit damp when I take them out to re-wet them, the built in hygrometer in my case is still reading around 20 to 25 percent humidity. I'm worried that low level will damage my fiddle; I don't see any cracks yet, but I do notice a tiny bit of finish checking on the back. This is a fiddle that was varnished within the last year - is finish checking a bad thing? A sign of being too dry?

I keep my case zippered and snapped shut when I'm not playing, so it's not a matter of leaving the case open. I hope the case is adequately sealed, since it cost a few hundred dollars. My house is very dry though, so it could just be the environment, even though the sponges are damp.

Any hygrometer/humidifier suggestions?

Should I consider humidifying my apartment? If I go that route, I need to make sure whatever I buy isn't going to grow mold (bad allergies).

Thanks!</description>
<pubDate>Wed, 20 Jan 2010 11:02:17 CST</pubDate>

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