Fiddle Hangout - Fiddle Building, Setup, and Repair Forum Feed

Homemade 1943 Fiddle

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 3 Jun 2026 16:32:54 CST

Hey guys - so, my dad came of age around 1943 or so.
So, wartime, no dad, and poor, yet built a violin.
He lived on Whitetop, and worked with Albert Nash on his own violin, that became my orchestra instrument. I can remember visiting Albert's house when small.

So, 83 years later - it needs some touch-up, etc.
Allowing for lack of 'commercial' supplies, anyone have a good first guess what the finish may be? It is an light amber, blond finish, open neck and rosewood fingerboard and store bought trim (maybe late for my use).

Anyone?

Intonation

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 28 May 2026 21:14:19 CST

I have several fiddles that all have wonky intonation. I printed off a "fingerboard guide" for testing purposes only (I know those things aren't that accurate, I just wanted it as a reference for a straight line across the fingerboard), and tested intonation. You would think that the intonation on one string would be the same as the string beside it right? Like the line on the diagram would be either perfect between two strings, equally flat, or equally sharp, right?

Well, no such luck. The one fiddle I tested was basically this: The G, D, and A strings were relatively close to each other, but the E string was considerably flat from the rest.

I only tested one fiddle, but I know several of mine have similar issues.

I am very limited in my knowledge of fiddle setup (only thing I've ever done is cut new bridges to match the old ones). I am a banjo builder though. Anyone have any advice on how to chase down the issue?

Violin Cello to Violin Bass

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sat, 11 Apr 2026 07:32:16 CST

I have 4 old student cello’s lying around the place 2 full size and 2 half size. So I took a Stentor II (is that two or eleven) full size and bought a d,addario low F string for the NS design electric cello for it. Reading all the reviews on this string it comes up time and again that on an acoustic cello it is way too floppy so I hatched a plan!
I moved the soundpost a little closer to the tailpiece and then shifted the bridge to the other side of the soundpost. Then I fitted it with a tailpiece from one of the half size cello’s, and of course I had to make a new taller bridge. The vibrating string length is now 2” longer than the standard. This makes the F string acceptable. I honestly thought it would be better but it still is quite good. I payed a little under €70 for the F from Thomman in Germany. For the other 3 slots (CGD) I bought a set of cheap and cheerful Chinese cello strings for €30 which are only available in medium strength.
The bridge is two pieces of bamboo glued together with the grain direction 90 degrees opposed as you can see in the photo. The idea of this is to maintain strength and take advantage of the vertical grain which transfers sound waves a lot more efficiently.
The results are very impressive. The F as mentioned is good and the other 3 are awesome when plucked. Soft tension Larsen’s are on my wishlist. Due in part to the short afterlenght below the bridge and the inferior strings the bowing performance is mediocre with the current set up.
Off to the pub for a play! Yippee!!!
The first thing is space. Sitting in tightly packed space this instrument is the ideal size. I’ve seen double bass players at sessions and they have to stand to play and they get relegated to the periphery. It’s hard to be objective when it comes to the sound and volume of an instrument like this because all the sound is projected forward away from the player. From what I can hear it sounds exactly like a a double bass and I can clearly hear the CD&A strings. The F not so clearly but I know it’s there. It is great fun to play. The tuning is a little funky to get used to, GDAE would be easier for me but I like to have the F available for now. Maybe when I get the lower tension strings I can shorten the vibrating length a little and tune it up higher. The really important thing is that everybody loves it and it is welcomed to the session (some people I rub shoulders with are fussy. Very fussy).
So it’s a winner if any of you want to give it a try

Info on JM Grimm fiddle

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 6 Apr 2026 14:02:36 CST

I’m hoping someone can give me a direction to continue my search for info on a fiddle maker named JM Grimm. I have one of his fiddles that he made March 30, 1927. Nicely made with a great tone. Unfortunately he didn’t say where he was from when he signed it. Any info appreciated.

Artificial intelligence tailpiece

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 1 Apr 2026 05:31:26 CST

I just got an advertising email from The Pagaino shop promoting a tailpiece that has a high tech computerized compensation for intonation. It is supposed to have a 48 hour battery life. I bet that it would run flat in half an hour trying to compensate for my poor intonation. The company that makes this thing is called Cremona Lab.

Making my 1st nut for the fiddle - any tips appreciated

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sat, 21 Mar 2026 07:26:08 CST

I've made nuts for guitars before and have plenty of tools as well as nut files. I've never done one for the fiddle though. I'll be replacing a nut that was made with too narrow string spacing.

Any pointers to good references (online preferably) on the details and nuances of fiddle nuts will be greatly appreciated.

I have a set of ebony nut blanks and also have several cow bones around to cut from if needed.

Fiddle Quartet

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 18 Mar 2026 03:04:20 CST

I decided yesterday that I am going to have an attempt at making a fiddle quartet. 2 violins, 1 viola and a cello. In the last few of years I have been taking a keen interest in the history of the violin ( tenor violin in particular). One maker that has intrigued me is Frenchman Felix Savart. He came up with his acclaimed rational violin. Proving that there can be an alternative to the conventional form. I will also be trying something new and even more unconventional. My 4 fiddles will be ugly, ugly, ugly and uglier! but I’m hoping that they sound good. They will follow the line of the style of guitar I invented over the Christmas break! So they will have a bolted cantilever system that should replace the sound post (it allows for no bracing on the guitar). My plan A is to have them complete for Paddies Day next year. Currently I have 3 banjos, 3 guitars, 2 bouzouki and a 5 string banjo lute on the bench in my workshop so it’s going to take the whole year.

Did I get a good deal?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 25 Feb 2026 21:18:58 CST

So as i mentioned in previous posts im wanting to start building my own fiddles. Im trying to start collecting tools and other costs of cradles and sharpening stones and such. I found this on ebay and I paid $375 for this, I feel like this is a good start. What do yall think?

Illustrated Notes on Violin Making — by Claire Hutter

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 25 Feb 2026 01:48:23 CST

Illustrated Notes on Violin Making — by Claire Hutter (née Nicolls)

Discover the beauty and craft of traditional violin making through Claire Hutter’s exquisitely hand-written and illustrated workshop notes, created during her time at the renowned Newark School of Violin Making.

This unique volume is the perfect companion for anyone wishing to understand how to make a violin from start to finish the classic “Newark Way,” capturing every lecture and step in rich detail.

Claire’s drawings and explanations offer an intimate glimpse into a golden era of the school—before mobile phones, before the internet, and when craftsmanship was passed down by eye, hand, and memory.
“A love letter to Newark.”……Ben Hebbert

violinbridges.co.uk/product/vi...wark-way/

Finishing Violin

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 19 Feb 2026 00:11:49 CST

Wanting to have a clear vanish look, natural wood color, to the violin. Be my first one doing.

Wanting to go oil route.

I guess, what would be 101 to going about it?
Ground, seen some say they use egg. Any steps before this?
For a more clear look, don't want to much color added to it. What would be the steps needed after ground?

Maturity/Density of Wood on a Fiddle's Construction.

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 18 Feb 2026 11:20:14 CST

Hello there,

I have a question for any luthiers or anyone with similar knowledge out there, pertaining to building a fiddle with old growth tree wood versus younger wood.

Recently I had a chance to play another picker's fiddle around a jam circle, which doesn't come up often for me. And upon holding it, I noticed it was about 3 times heavier than my new fiddle I purchased about 6 months ago. (My new one is only my second fiddle, I paid about $1500 for it used, it's only a couple years old, and my first one is a cheapo). His fiddle had great tone as well. He called it a "German hand-me-down", nothing he was jumping in the air excited about.

I noticed that the wood grain on his fiddle was much closer together than the wood grain on mine. For those that don't know, that means that it's likely the tree the wood was cut from was a lot older when it was cut than the type of wood you would get at a tree farm where most wood comes from nowadays, when the trees are cut and sold right as they reach maturity. Along with having closer wood grain that you can see, old growth wood is also a lot denser, and therefore heavier, which you can feel.

I brought this up to the dealer I bought my fiddle from, I was wondering if fiddles made of highly mature trees are more expensive and sought after. She had said that when they were purchasing instruments that the lighter the instrument the better. She didn't know anything about the woodgrain and old growth trees. I only know this from my time in carpentry building furniture. Where denser, heavier wood is more expensive. However according to her, *lighter* fiddles are more resonant. This is possible, considering that my fiddle was a little louder than the one that inspired this post, however I did like the tone of his fiddle. And I believe it was just an old factory made German fiddle, not a custom hand made one. She also posited that it was possible that the actual pieces of wood on his fiddle were actually thicker(not just the same thickness but more dense as I had assumed due to the wood grain), which would also account for the extra weight, but she said was not desirable.

Could anyone shed some light on this? I'm just wondering if when the day comes that I spend a lot of money on a fiddle, maturity of the wood is a big difference maker? Love learning about this stuff! Thanks.

Glassner carbon fiber fiddle audio issue

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 10 Feb 2026 15:09:10 CST

Hello all,

I've been playing the fiddle for about 25 years and have never encountered an issue like this. I have a glassner carbon fiber fiddle with the built in pick up system. Recently over the summer when I start bowing there is alot of what can only be described as almost tin foil being crinkled when I play. I think it maybe the tone knobs because it almost seems to go away if I put my hand on them. Has anyone else encountered any audio issue was the glassner acoustic electric fiddles?

Beginner here, be nice.

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 10 Feb 2026 09:57:01 CST

Ok so let me just say im a absolute beginner here. So with that out of the way, ive been playing for about 20 or so years on and off. I bought this at a flea market for $50 dollars. They were obviously pretty proud of it (see price) ive tried to buy this on multiple occasions for years now. I just wanted it for the mechanical tuners. Never would budge on price even with all these terrible repairs. But they were going out of business and i shot my shot. I wanna start making them but have never had one apart so I figured start here. After getting started i made the terrible decision to repair this and its most likely a lost cause. The glue, which is mostly not hide glue is everywhere. I do know that generally the top is removed for repairs but due to the glue damage I found it best to remove the back. Now I am at the process of the top and back off. The fingerboard has been glued with this terrible stuff to the neck. So I left the neck on the ribs and blocks. I have it in a mold and the neck supported. No idea what im doing here and any advice would be appreciated. Best I can figure its a Seidel German trade violin roughly from 1870's to 1910's.

Tuning peg issue

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 18 Dec 2025 11:58:09 CST

Yeah, I know you've heard this before, but one of my pegs is stuck and I've applied a lot of pressure to try to unstick it on my own. Don't want to break a peg, or the box.

Tips? TIA!

for the sake of discussion...

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 11 Dec 2025 13:49:40 CST

...why do we route the strings on our fiddles over the nut and then over the top the tuning peg?

Why are we not routing the strings over the nut and then under the tuning peg?

Forget how convenient it is. Is it optimal, or are we just being lazy? ...perhaps honoring an age old tradition?

Loosening Hair

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 26 Oct 2025 19:38:34 CST

I have a very old fiddle bow i found years ago at a flea market. When I took it in to have it re-haired and got it back. I was told not to loosen it after playing. I have never been told this before. Just checking to see if this is normal advice.

Broken bow

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 23 Oct 2025 10:42:29 CST

UPS broke my bow and I have a claim out. Problem is that once it is fixed, I can't sell it for anything. I had it appraised at a high end violin shop. It is a Halsey bow originally worth $500-$700. Repair bow is $50-$150. Then the bow is only worth $200. Anyone here want the bow for the price of shipping? About $70.

Buzzing with electric fiddle

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 12 Oct 2025 13:16:30 CST

Dont know if anyone can help with this, but my leccy fiddle suddenly developed a buzz, and has now given up the ghost altogether when plugged into an amp, it buzzes very loudly, it works great when listening to phones as a practice instrument.
I think its something to do with the earthing, but I have had the wiring out and cant see any breaks or obvious problems, any ideas would be great.

Soundpost adaptations:how big will the effect be?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 22 Sep 2025 17:06:06 CST

I just read up on how the soundpost placement can influence the sound of a fiddle, if I understood well the closer to the bridge the brighter the sound, the further from the bridge the darker and warmer and round the sound.
I am very happy with the sound of my old fiddle and don't want it to be adjusted ever. However, my first fiddle suddenly sounds like a perfect candidate for soundpost adjustment. It still needs to go to the luthier anyway because of the stain on the back I caused in a fragrance oil incident and because of the D string I broke in a dumb tuning incident. So I thought I might as well ask my luthier in future to same time see what he can do to adjust the sound. It would rock to have a rather dark sounding fiddle as well :-D

How realistic are my expectations? Can a very bright / brilliant sounding fiddle gain darkness in sound by only adjusting the soundpost or is there more that is needed to reach this?

Fine Tuner Help

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 21 Sep 2025 11:08:18 CST

I just bought a used violin and the fine tuners have a mark stamped on the top. My Google sleuthing is producing nothing. Does anyone recognize the logo/mark? The label inside the violin has:
A. Schroetter
Beigenbaumeister
Mittenwald/Bayern
MADE IN GERMANY

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! -J

Bon Musica users - trying something out

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 18 Sep 2025 16:52:56 CST

I use a Bon Musica shoulder rest, but lately I find the 'hook' is not enough to keep the fiddle in place. So I've made a extension pr rather a new piece that allows the hook to go all the way over the shoulder. About $12 in material ( 1" x 1/16 alum flat bar and some high density foam). Bent to my shoulder. It seems to help quite a bit! Long gig this W/E, let you all know how it worked out.

Luthier in NYC for set ups etc.?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 19 Aug 2025 15:24:14 CST

I've got a few decent fiddles that I'd like to make sure are still well set up and adjusted after a very hot, humid couple of weeks in upstate playing outside.

Can anyone recommend a luthier who can do a look-over, set up, probably rehair? Thanks.

humidity

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 4 Aug 2025 13:45:25 CST

Having dealt with over loosened bow hair at festivals over the years, I've decided to forego the problem of bows getting so damp from the humidity that they are Actually useless.. I'm planning on having a 'dedicated' bow that is tight from the start and can then be further tightened as humidity requires...Anyone who has spent time trying to play on a humid WEEK will understand this need.. I'm going to shorten the hair on ONE bow.
Recently, at Clifftop someone heard us discussing this issue and the gal brought over an Incredi-bow.. It was interesting..

PS.. At Clifftop this year I made it a point to put all four of the bows I brought ..out in the sun to dry/shrink/be-playable every morning and kept them in a dry case until needed..
Thoughts????????

PS... having seen the inside of bows, I notice that it is usually just about 1/2 inch of adjustment available.. Unless a bow is relatively tight from the start, it can easily get too loose from humidity to be playable...

International Violin Bridge Competition 2025 - Only Six weeks to go

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 18 Jul 2025 03:49:46 CST

International Violin Bridge Competition 2025

Arrival deadline for entires is september the 1st 2025

Come join us and celebrate the art of violin family setup and showcase your work to a global audience.

Amazing prizes from our sponsors

Registration link here.

violinbridges.co.uk

Bought a used fiddle…looking for info

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sat, 12 Jul 2025 20:06:20 CST

Hello all! I bought a used fiddle today. It’s a Stenzler TR 341. I can’t find much about the brand. Anyone have any info? Also… it’s 22 1/4 inch…what size bridge should I be using? Thanks in advance!

Tone - tuning down

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 8 Jul 2025 11:24:14 CST

This may be a bit of stupid / woolly question, but … my fiddle often sounds a bit harsh and scratchy, however if I tune down a tone it sounds wonderful and rich and makes me sound twice as good a player!

Is there anything I can do to replicate that richer more mellifluous tone when in standard tuning?

Is it set up or playing?

Fiddle fit

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 6 Jul 2025 11:02:16 CST

I ran into an interesting problem.

I use two fiddles, one in standard tuning and the other cross-tuned. Both fiddles are German trade instruments rebuilt by Royce Burt. Their wonderful tone is just slightly different between there two, but the they play exactly the same.

I went traveling for the summer and left my cross-tuned fiddle at home. A relative loaned me her Eastman intermediate-level violin that she no longer plays. When I started playing the loaner I noticed that I was often playing sharp. The A on the E string was consistently sharp in relation to the open A string, and so on with the lower strings. To play in tune I needed to move my left hand further out on the neck, tightly against the hook or heel of the scroll (I don’t know the correct name for that part of the scroll -- it’s on the bottom of the scroll, directly under the nut.)

After thinking about it, I figured that maybe the bridge was too far forward. I measured the scale from bottom edge of the nut to the forward face of the bridge and found that the scale of the loaner was 1.5mm shorter than my regular fiddle (324.5 mmm vs 326mm). I adjusted the bridge to bring the scale to 326mm and that helped somewhat, but I still found my left hand pushing against the bottom of the scroll to play in tune.

So I concluded that these two fiddles have some physical differences, specifically that the neck is just a tad shorter on the Eastman loaner. I guess that could be understandable, given that these two instruments came from very different parts of the world, 100 years apart.

I ended up moving the bridge back an additional 2 mm and the fiddle now plays right -- I can go back and forth between the two fiddles without thinking about mechanics. I’m sure that a more competent fiddler would be able to adapt to differing dimensions among fiddles, but this seems like a functional solution for me -- the best fix that I could come up with. I certainly didn’t want to make any major changes to a loaner instrument and I’ll restore the original settings when I return it.

casein, albumin, mineral...? (sealer/ground options)

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 1 Jul 2025 14:17:02 CST

I've been given a fiddle in the white, and am just starting to investigate the mysteries of violin varnish. I've done a good bit of setup and minor repairs over the years, but have deliberately avoided messing with finishing.

I understand the idea of sealing the pores, so the varnish doesn't soak into the wood, but when it comes to fiddles, everything sure does tend to go off in the direction of magic and alchemy whenever them that know start talking shop...
A lot of folks recommend something protein-based, often casein, giving a recipe based on milk powder.
- - Isn't Elmer's® casein glue? If it is, could it be used (diluted) as a ground (with or without pumice, fuller's earth, or whatever filler added)?
-- Wouldn't thin hide glue work?
-- What about dilute shellac+mineral filler? (I've seen just a thin coat of shellac recommended, but others say it's not flexible enough).
-- Any other ideas?

Color removal

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 30 Jun 2025 17:26:59 CST

Why does alcohol remove color from a (dried) oil varnished surface?

Thinking of flattening my bridge a bit?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 25 Jun 2025 09:54:34 CST

I play mostly Irish Trad tunes, some Scottish…but they are not really double-stop-heavy genres.

However I heard that a flatter bridge can give you a warmer sound, and make for easier (lower-effort) string crossings? That all sounds like something I’d like…!

1. Is the above ‘word of mouth’ true?
2. Is it expensive?

Once I have a flatter bridge, am I gonna keep hitting 2 strings at once when I don’t want to?

Wondering!
Thanks! :-)

Introducing Violin Pro-Hold: Maintains Your Best Holding Position

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 12 May 2025 10:45:52 CST

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Easy to Use: Once you find your ideal holding position, you can easily lift your instrument off the magnet and click it back into place quickly. This allows you can focus on your music without any interruptions.

Strong Magnetic Anchor: The system allows for natural movement of your instrument during performances and practice sessions while keeping it anchored to a strong magnetic point.

How to Learn More: To learn more about the Violin Pro-Hold, including installation, usage, and purchasing information, visit our website: violinprohold.com/.

About the Inventor: I am the inventor and owner of VHold LLC, an Oklahoma-based company dedicated to making and marketing the Violin Pro-Hold. After a neck injury, I sought a more comfortable and secure way to hold my violin. Inspired by violinist Daniel Kurganov’s use of magnets and a rubber band, I experimented with various magnets and configurations. Fellow violinists tried out promising prototypes, suggested key improvements, and encouraged me to bring this system to market.

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String changing to help tuning

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 14 Apr 2025 15:37:52 CST

One of my instruments has wooden pegs, with a fine-tuner only on the E. I use synthetics on that one.

So, for ease of tuning while bowing the string, I want the A peg to end up perpendicular to the pegbox (after the strings have settled in).

But, when I change strings, it never ends up that way. So, what's the trick? Do I trim off half a turn before threading the string in the peg hole?

I don't care about the D and G, they are no problem.