Fiddle Hangout - Fiddle Building, Setup, and Repair Forum Feed

Violin construction and tone question

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 21 May 2013 06:44:57 CST

What is it about the construction of a violin, that makes a violin open or airy sounding vs. having a strong core with good projection? I not asking about violin set up. That can change things to a certain point. But there's a limit on what that can do. I've already tried the dampening things with the set up.

Is it the density of the top, thickness of the center of the back, ????

basket case HOPF? fiddle

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 21 May 2013 01:35:33 CST

My wife and daughter bought me an old basket case fiddle for my birthday. They gave 30.00 bucks for it and a non haired Germany stamped bow. The fiddle back is branded as a HOPF, and a small paper tag inside says Made in Germany. I believe it is a copy of a HOPF. The 2 piece top has no cracks nor does the 2 piece back. It has no corner blocks and only has lining strips where you look through the F holes. I took it apart due to a loose neck. I learned from another post the neck is a through neck. I have 4 other fiddles and none of them have a neck like this. The wedges are there and I think I can clean it up and put it back together. I want to install corner blocks and lining strips. Someone used a pocket knife to ream out the peg holes and installed metal style pegs. One peg is incomplete and all the plastic ends were rotten and broke during disassembly. I think I can ream the peg holes out and install new pegs. I got to find a reamer and peg shaver for that. When I get time I will post some pictures. I probably should have just hung it on the wall to look at. But I got to play it. Any thoughts out there?

Viola afterlength?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 20 May 2013 10:48:23 CST

Hi All. I've got a nice viola with a 15-inch body that I'm setting up. It's the first I've worked on. Any advice on bridge and afterlength measurements?

thx

Randy

Confused about humidity...

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sat, 18 May 2013 13:12:32 CST

In a nutshell...my fiddle case and one of my guitar cases have hygrometers (sp?)... Both read humiduty way up beyond normal ... Don't know what I can do about it because we do not have air conditioning. But here's the confusion: I got a Martin D-18 several years ago that cracked not long after I got it...the other day a luthier said the wood needed hydrating very bad or more cracks would soon follow. I think this guitar was a lemon...mainly our house is cool and damp most of the winter and hot and humid during summer...I've had no other instruments crack, plus the wo cases with hygrometers are showing high humidity. I heard Nartin had a warehouse fire around the time we got tis guitar, and I'm really wondering if they made some guitars with damaged wood? I realize I'm talking guitars insteada fiddles here, but I've never done anything fr humidty...cannot control conditions in our house except for up until two years ago when we heated with wood and I kept a pot of water on th stove...now we took out the woodstove and just have space heaters...most of the house says cool and damp...anybody got deas abou this? Thinking to sell the Martin and never purchase another of their products ( we emailed them about this a few years back and they were like...oh well...).

Low Tension String?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 16 May 2013 14:54:42 CST

I'm a little confused by hat they mean when they rate string tensions as low/medium/high.

Does that refer to the amount of tension the strings exert on the body of the fiddle. If so would low tension strings be better on a older fragile violin?

Thanks

string too tight to tune up to desired pitch

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 13 May 2013 14:18:40 CST

My A and E strings are too tight to tune up right, did I do something wrong when I put them on? Is there something wrong with my fiddle?

Yet another string question

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 12 May 2013 08:33:48 CST

In the beginning, I used the red label, but switched to Helicore mediums which I still use. I like the Helicore's warm tone and nice full overtones on my fiddle. I've also tried Primm (which are very popular down in the Ozarks) but I dont care much for them on my fiddle. I'm thinking about experimenting a bit in the quest for better tone and playability. My question is, whats the main difference in synthetic strings? Do they behave more like gut or what? Whats the advantage / disadvantage?

I've never used the synthetics and would like to hear some of your experiences before I shell out the cash.

Thanks, Don

Looking for books on graduating

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sat, 11 May 2013 07:32:45 CST

Can you guys give some good recommendations on books that go in depth about graduating? I'm going to pick up Strobels: violin making, step by step. Any other ones?

Violin Cleaner and Polish

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 8 May 2013 23:04:10 CST

Dear folks,

I just bought a used violin and I want to clean it a little bit. I don't know if it's safe to use Violin cleaner and polish solution.

Is there any thing I can use to cover those spot?

Please help me some advices!
Thank you,

Fingerboard scoop

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 8 May 2013 02:55:00 CST

Hi folks,

I would just like to know where the fingerboard scoop should be the deepest, where on the fingerboard? And should the scoop start right at the nut or should it be fairly flat for a certain distance? The reason I ask is that many fiddles I try seem to feel better than mine, in first position, or nearer to the nut.. The height, right at the nut looks about right but it doesn't feel as good as most well set up instruments that I've tried.

Thanks.

Will dye penetrate varnish

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 5 May 2013 15:35:01 CST

So i'm new to this and i guess i was looking at the wrong instructions for building a violin. This is my first violin build and it was meant to be more of a show violin than a playable one. I was wanting to dye it a dark green color and per the instructions i was reading i have put a ground coat and two thin layers of varnish on. I have transtint and was wondering if i mix that with alchol and rub it onto the violin will that penetrate through the varnish and stain the wood? Or would i have to completely strip the varnish from the violin before doing that?

no f note

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 5 May 2013 05:52:31 CST

I was hoping for some help,I recently got a fiddle that I can't get an "f" after the open "e", I fret as tight to the nut as I can,but still get an f-sharp.I messed with the bridge slightly,but still nothing,could it be the nuts worn low? Thanks,Danjo

need help with info on a violin

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 3 May 2013 07:45:34 CST

Hi everyone. I found this forum & was hoping someone could help me out. I recently inherited this violin, i know NOTHING about them though. I was told that it is around 100 years old but i have no real facts to back this up. Can anyone tell me anything at allabout this instrument? I could only find one marking, looks like it says CAVOIGT PHILA but i could be wrong (pictured below). I tried a search of that marking & found nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[IMG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll88/swervncarz/0503130928-1_zpsdf3862ef.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll88/swervncarz/0503130928a-1_zps75b18a05.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll88/swervncarz/0503130930a_zps6a6afc86.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll88/swervncarz/0503130930_zpse79413ee.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll88/swervncarz/0503130929a_zpsb6060632.jpg[/IMG]

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W. seifert octagonal bowI there

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 28 Apr 2013 17:41:46 CST

There are two stars on my w. seifert octagonal violin bow. For whatever reason I was wondering what it stood for. So I looked up the bow online and apparently they sell these intermediate w. seifert octagonal bows, but in the pictures I only see the name stamped. Mine has the name and two stars stamped. Plus Germany stamped behind the frog. I was wondering if anyone could tell me the significance? Btw. The bow is a dream to play, easy to control. Nice give. Full, rich tone. I'm very pleased. Just curious. A mystery to me. Thanks all

sweet e

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 19:28:35 CST

My main fiddle has a super sweet e string. Just sugary sweet. Very unusual it's not harsh or piercing etc.

So I decided (evil gleam in my eye) to put the most powerful e string; super forte and so on on the e.

It is a Jargar Forte E string. Actually it's been on there for some time and I just remembered why I put it on there.

Has anyone put a super string on a little part of their fiddle to accentuate, or conversely, attenuate a specific area. I have some fiddles that have strident e strings that I use an e from a gut set (I don't buy the gut set just the e) like gold wondertone etc. I'm starting to feel lame about doing that, but I still throw away the e from a set and sub in an alternative.

I'm thinking about boosting up the D and attenuating the A (slightly), keeping the e boost, probably leaving the G as mellow.

I'm looking at a Superflexible G. I'll post the whole set when I get it settled. It's going to be on a really loud fiddle.

Cutting a Flatter Bridge?? Angled radius??

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 13:09:34 CST

When cutting a flatter bridge Radius, say 50-52 instead of 42 do you tilt the radius so the e string sits lower than the G??

Also whats the average string spread?

I went fiddle tool shopping today. Got myself a bunch of goodies. peg shaper, mini planes, new sound post setter. sound post gauge, chisels, gouges, knives, etc.... I still don't know why reamers are so pricey but I bought one none the less.

I also picked up a bunch of bridge blanks some Aubert # 5 and #7 plus some Despiau C grades. I'm going to cut a flatter bridge for my main instrument. Its got a classical cut bridge right now. I've been messing with this german trade fiddle with a slightly flatter bridge and I really like it.

Tanner

Gene Horner

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 20:40:53 CST

Does anyone have contact information for Gene Horner in Tennessee? I want to go down next month and see f I can buy a fiddle from him. Thanks.

Do I need new rosin?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 19:23:02 CST

Helloooo,

I was reading the thread about Kolstein violin rosin and was thinking of getting some myself because atm when I play it sometimes sounds a little scratchy (can't think of any other words to explain it), would that be the rosin that I am using, or something with the bow??? I dunno...

And also, if I was to buy the new rosin, do I have to clean the current rosin I am using off the bow hairs or can I just leave it, if so how would I clean the bow.

Thanks,

Two-piece belly on a fiddle

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 23 Apr 2013 14:12:35 CST

I have searched the archives, with no luck. If this has been asked before, please forgive the repetition.

How common is a two-piece belly on a fiddle?

Setup ? Neck Stop is long. Scale length

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:54:31 CST

So, I got that german trade fiddle the other day. In the pics I posted it wasn't setup. It had a Bausch bridge and all the parts to put her back together in the case. I put a wittner tailpiece on because it had add on fine tuner in the case. The pegs a worn but work for now. I'll replace them later.

I measured the Neck stop at (133.35mm) and the body stop at (195.25mm).

I originally set the string length at (330mm) as I've seen on here a few times. Without thought to neck stop. I also set the after length at (57mm). The tailgut stretched and settled after several hours under tension. So my afterlength shortened up.

The soundpost was well cut(angle wise) for fit. All most perfectly flush when set . I set the post with the G and E strings under very light tension on the bridge. Just enough pressure to keep the bridge from wandering all over the place by itself. With the light tension on the strings the post fit with enough pressure to keep it upright but very moveable. I set the post about 3mm in from the outside of the treble side bridgefoot and about 4mm behind it.

The action is pretty low but very comfortable to play compared to my other fiddle which has a more classical setup. The bridge was a touch flatter than my other setup.

I setup it up with Preludes. I figured this was a learning expirience no need to mess up an expensive set of strings. I have Helicores waiting when I finalize my setup and get new pegs reamed.

The sound with the Preludes was very bright, clear, fairly focused, not very complex( but Preludes usually aren't complex) and loud. It resonated very well. Nice vibrations throughout the instrument. It seems to favor the treble side a bit. Its bright to me but my other fiddle is setup with Infeld Reds and an Oliv E so I"m at opposite ends of the string spectrum.

I wanted to reset the after length after the tailgut stretched. I actually took the neck and body stop measurements and did the math. It puts me at around 333mm. Which is a decent change. I decided to try setting it up at those specs. I did cheat the bridge forward just a smidge. I then repeated the above process and reset my after length.

I'll get a better idea of sound today after it sat over night. My first thoughts where that it resonated better, a touch louder and everything else was about the same.

If you where in this situation what would you do?? any other thoughts?

Thanks

Tanner

How do you move the soundpost?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 21 Apr 2013 13:45:47 CST

Wasn't sure how so thought I'd better ask someone. And where is the best position?

Tuning pegs issue (in UK)

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 21 Apr 2013 01:40:49 CST

Hi - Im new here and new to violin.

I have an old violin that belonged to my grandmother. Its in pretty good shape except that the tuning pegs are all different and slip, ie wont hld strings in tune (and are difficult to tune anyhow).

Any tips on what to do? - I guess reaming the holes and getting new pegs is the way to go but where to get these items in the UK?.

Thanks, Mike

what tools to use

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sat, 20 Apr 2013 21:31:31 CST

Dear Fiddle Fixers, I would like to know what type of chisels to use to carve a scroll for a violin viola, Cello and bas viol....................................thankyou DEnnis in AZ

Your Favorite brand of bridges?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 06:49:12 CST

Hey yall!!

What are your favorite fiddle bridges?

Mine are Aubert and also Teller bridges.

Question about finishing

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 18 Apr 2013 12:40:50 CST

Hi i'm new to building and to this forum. I was curious if someone could help me out with a couple questions. I've tried doing a lot of research on this topic and there are just to many contradicting things. I will have about a month to do the finish on a violin i have been building for my girlfriend. I think i am going to go with Behlen Violin oil Varnish. To me it just seems like a superior violin would be finished in oil, and it seems like it is going to be easier for me to do. Now i know cure times on oil can be a while but is is possible to speed up the process by getting some uv or black lights? And do you think i am making a good decision by going with oil based?

A new 5 string

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 06:55:11 CST

Here is a 5 string made form ebony, SE Asian and Gaboon.

Neck broke loose on one of my fiddles

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 05:17:47 CST

I have no idea how to fix it. It broke loose from the body. Anyone ever have a problem like this happen and fixed it? How did you do it?

Also it sounds like something came loose inside of the fiddle, too. Could be the sound post, but not usre.

Swiss tonewood tree pickers

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 14 Apr 2013 14:50:53 CST

An interesting BBC article on Swiss tonewood harvesters:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-22094279

Muted D note on A string? Soundpost adjustment?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sat, 13 Apr 2013 10:15:20 CST

Hello,

Recently I had a set of Infeld Reds with an Oliv E string put on replacing an old set of Dominants. I told the shop to check the setup and string it for me.( I was looking to try darker sounding strings) They made an adjustment to the sound post with the restring. Now the string haven't completely settled in yet, but even when in tune the D note(3rd finger) on the A string in first position is muted/muffled. The rest of the strings sound excellent. I can't even dig in on that note to get volume out of it. The sound post looks like it was adjusted closer to the centerline. Its further away from the F hole than the bass bar. I'm guessing thats to enhance the bass strings?

I would assume I should move the soundpost back towards the treble side F hole ?

Any thoughts?

If its anything more than that a simple tweek I'll go back to the shop. I hate to drive all the way back down there for them to move the soundpost 1 or 2 mm. Its a pretty good ways away.

Thanks,

Tanner

building first fiddle

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:47:34 CST

Hey Everyone, I am wanting to build a fiddle from scratch. I was gonna start with making the neck. Has anyone ever used like like walnut, cherry or mahogany for the neck back and sides for building a fiddle? I know maple is used alot on most fiddles.

String height

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 01:08:00 CST

I know string height is measured at the end of the fingerboard. My question is does one measure from fingerboard to the bottom of the string, or to the middle of the string?

Too much string tension or..?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 00:12:37 CST

I use Dominants on my fiddle now, I've always used them on all of my fiddles, except the last one, and I like them. I have done a lot of experimenting with other strings. I mentioned before that I was using regular Visions on my last fiddle because Dominants just seemed so weak and slow to respond and the Visions really perked it up. That fiddle was a piece of junk, so maybe it's not even worth worrying about. On my new, pretty nice fiddle though, it seemed like the Visions were choking my instrument, so I switched to Dominants and they work well. The Visions sounded and felt awful, kinda wolfy, or gurgly, or something, they just didn't vibrate correctly. I've experienced this on other fiddles, sometimes the non- Dominant strings will seem to be ok for a day or two and then the wolfiness sets in and they become unplayable, although with the Visions and certain other strings they were awful right away. Is this caused by too much string tension or is it something else? Are Visions higher tension than Dominants? Thanks.

What effect does a warped bow have on bowing??

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 9 Apr 2013 14:31:14 CST

I got a Pernambuco bow as a throw in on a trade. It was part of a few things tossed in for a sweetener. Its one a Shar's Meniel bows. Its nicely balanced for me. I didn't own a wood bow only CF bows so I figured throw it in the deal. I was going to take the trade before the bow anyway. Its got just the slightest warp to the left.

So what effect does a warped bow have on bowing??

Tanner

Funny Fiddle Repair Stories

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 9 Apr 2013 13:28:31 CST

Bless his little heart.. A friend who is new to owning and playing a fiddle called me today and said that he needed an emergency repair made to his fiddle. Apparently, he was playing and heard a loud pop that he equated to a 22 caliber gun going off. I asked him if his playing was still so bad that the neighbors were shooting at him. He was sure that that wasn't the case but whatever it was, it affected all of the strings. I asked him to bring the fiddle over right away and I'd have a look at it.

When he arrived and I saw the fiddle, I was amazed that he didn't notice what the problem was. The bridge had fallen forward with a "bang" which scared him. Funny thing was, ..... he didn't even notice that the bridge was now gone.. I said ,"Where is the bridge? Did you bring it with you?".....he replied, "Gosh, I didn't even notice that it was missing. It's probably home somewhere on the floor"...I'm still chuckling about that one.. I used a bridge that I had on hand and gave him a little tutorial on how to put the bridge back on---- if he could find it when he got home (if his dog hasn't eaten it or sumpthin')..He was a great sport about the event and saw the humour in it all..

Now, tell us if YOU have any funny repair stories

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Nokia 808 PureView-----$280

Canon EOS 5D Mark II .... $1000
ULTRA THIN APPLE MACBOOK AIR 13" LAPTOP = $450

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new strings - jargar

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 2 Apr 2013 18:23:48 CST

I broke a string on st patty's day [it was a Helicore A ...] right before playing and had to sub in a used one from the previous set. The strings were almost exactly about a year old. So now I'm going to replace the whole set (Helicore GDA and kaplan E) with a new set. I decided on:

Jargar GDA and Larsen Tzigane E. Installing tomorrow (Wednesday) and playing on Thursday.

Sagging top on a great fiddle...

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 2 Apr 2013 14:53:47 CST

I have a Charotte-Millot from @ 1860. It is a terrific sounding instrument and pretty as well. Problem is the top has sagged a bit under the bridge and bulged up under the finger board. The top is not excessively thinned and there are no cracks or structural issues except for the flattening under the bridge.

So my question(s): I can leave it as it is and accept it has a funky arch to the top and play the snot out of it. Or I can spend ?$$ to have someone repair it if possible. As much more advanced players than this new-be, I'm all for your opinions about this. If there is a picture attached to this post, it is the red fiddle on the left, the one with the pear-and-ebony checked binding.

Thanks!

The Golden Fiddle

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 1 Apr 2013 16:06:38 CST

I like cruising antique shops for stringed instruments to bring home and fix up for fun, very rarely for profit... Yesterday I found a fiddle that had been spray painted gold. The whole thing, strings, pegs and all. The lighting was too dim to look through the f hole to see what kind of wood or a label. There were no cracks

or other issues, just a tag that said gold decoration violin $49... Might have been worth $49 but the paint wasn't very evenly applied...

Would you ever consider this???

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Mon, 1 Apr 2013 06:05:10 CST

I have a friend who has an issue. He has a nice violin/fiddle with very nice boxwood pegs, tail piece, and chin rest. He wants fine tuners on all four strings, and yet he also wants to be able to achieve an after length of 55-57mm. Right now with the normal style fine tuners he has, 43-45mm is all he is able to get. He has tried the Wittner Hill style fine tuners and doesn't care for them. So.......(finally the question) what would happen if he were to use a 3/4 size boxwood tail piece with the fine tuners he has, thus creating an appropriate after length. Would the less bulk of the smaller tail piece offset any gains he might make in the sound with a more proper after length. Any thoughts would be appreciated. If only Wittner made a boxwood looking composite tailpiece with built in fine tuners.

Violin Repair workshop in Madison, summer 2013!

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sat, 30 Mar 2013 06:30:46 CST

http://www.dcs.wisc.edu/lsa/music/nswstrings.htm

And I'm in!

changed chinrest and mark is left behind

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sat, 30 Mar 2013 06:18:58 CST

hi folks, i went from an over the tailpiece rest to one that sits over the top rib. Now i'm left with a mark where the old cork set into the varnish. Is there an easy way to remove that or just leave it alone. No big deal. thanks

Bridge profile question.

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 29 Mar 2013 13:37:38 CST

Looking along the length of my fiddle, from tailpiece towards the nut. Question; should the curve/profile of the bridge mirror that of the fingerboard?

Squealing E string

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 24 Mar 2013 09:51:20 CST

I have been having a problem with my E string squealing for awhile now. This is usually when I am using a downbow slur from A string to E string. I have switched E strings 3 or 4 times so I know it is not a problem with the string itself. I have had 2 different tailpieces. My luthier looked at it and he fixed a couple of slight seam separations and played with the soundpost. Said the bridge was still good. Still the same problem. I am forced to either lay into the E string harder than I would like or have it squeal.

Aside from my technique(which is always suspect) is there something else about the setup or instrument that could be causing this problem? I'm at a loss and I don't want to use a wound E. Maybe the bridge overlay in the E-string slot?

Bass Strings

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Sun, 24 Mar 2013 06:05:42 CST

My Kay Swingmaster is in need of a new set of strings. Is there a string that Bluegrass & Country musicians prefer ? I do not bow so I'm leaning toward a set made for pzzicato playing. I'm considering Helicore & Zyex by D'Addario and La Bella and Innovation. Any suggestions/ recommendations ?

fingerboard height?

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 22 Mar 2013 14:40:43 CST

Oh omniscient ones: I've got a fiddle on the bench that has a very high fingerboard height -- 27mm from top end of fingerboard to top of violin. I usually see this measure more at 20-22mm. The neck angle actually looks OK, but the heel of the neck looks to be at least 3mm too high. It's a Guarneri Cannon model and the top has very flat arching. It seems the maker didn't take this into account when carving the neck.

I'm inclined to take the extra millimeters off the heel. Advice?

Randy

What a difference a string makes...

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Tue, 19 Mar 2013 14:56:34 CST

E strings make a lot more difference than what one would expect.

I was setting up fiddles to record sound samples last week, and three of them just didn't sound quite right. They were resonant, balanced, and very responsive, so the basic setup was good, but the sound just wasn't "there" the way I felt it should be. I decided to try a different E string on one, and changed to a Lenzner Goldbrokat from whatever was on there, .27mm IIRC. The fiddle immediately sounded much richer and fuller on all 4 strings. I had observed the same thing with Jargar Forte E strings, so it wasn't a total surprise, but this was a pretty big change. I put the same string on the other 2 "problem children" with similar results. I'm not talking about anything really subtle; the change was very clear, very distinct, like when the sound post really fits right..

Larsen E strings are popular in Nashville, Jargar with classical players, but I'm thinking about making Lenzner my default string.

Got a couple of full sets in to try at the first opportunity, also. Couldn't find any reviews, but if they perform anywhere near the way the E strings do, it'll be interesting.

Lowering the strings on an EastmanVL305

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Fri, 15 Mar 2013 10:36:29 CST

First off a thanks to all who reply I've found this forum really helpful with my unending fiddle questions. So I'm pretty much decided on buying an Eastman 305 that I have borrowed from a local Luthier over the past couple weeks (along with a few other fiddles with the same strings and quality of setup)

I found one with lower string action and it was awesome I really like the super light touch when trying to get the right tone, I've asked him if he can lower them and he thinks it'll be fine.

I'm just curious is anyone else has the same model fiddle and also decided to lower the strings.. I do realize that every fiddle is a bit different YMMV etc, but it might still give me a general idea of what to expect.

finish on neck

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 14 Mar 2013 07:52:58 CST

On the underside of the neck between the body and the head This is a natural color. My question is -- does this area have a "finish" or is just the wood?

External volume control for LR Baggs pickup

eric@fiddlehangout.com — Thu, 14 Mar 2013 00:02:50 CST

Hellooo

I've got a LR Baggs pickup on my violin, I play at a small church with no sound engineer so I need to be able to adjust volume myself without having to go to the mixer.

So what I would like - if there is such a thing - is, a little box with a volume knob on it that plugs directly into my pickup, and then i can put an instrument cable into that little box into the mixer. I am aware that there are volume pedals but want something smaller and closer at hand rather than foot.

Any suggestions would be great, I cannot follow schematics so don't even try. :)

Thanks,

Kiara