drypitstop - Posted - 12/21/2009:  00:26:40

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Hello all: what is the best way to remove a top plate of a violin, the procedure step by step if possible, with out damaging the ribs or integrity of the violin?
I get violins all the time from the school up the road to do repairs on, some are a easy quick fix, others the top or back plate is comming off partially because the hide gave away. It is easy to continue on to do clean up and reglue, but I get violins in that have a very long crack on the seam or some other damage that necessitates to take the top off. it is very difficult to get inside through the "F" hole especially if the crack or seperation starts way up front near the head block or way on the other side near the tail block..........................Dennis in Az

Mandogryl - Posted - 12/21/2009:  02:09:45

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Dennis, although the hide glue is very strong to a degree, it is brittle. I have a long spatula that is supposed to be used for icing a cake. I 'work' it in any weak spot and just work it around. The plate will little by little give way. Sometimes warming the spatula helps. Newer violins have wooden pins that need to be taken into account for, but it is unlikely you would encounter those in a school instrument.

transplant - Posted - 12/21/2009:  05:08:58

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If the varnish is thick and smooth along the joint, I'll score it a bit to try and get a cleaner break.

Got to be especially careful by the lower eyes of the f-holes, where there's only a short span of wood to the edge. That's where I really slow down.

Sometimes it helps to push down right next to the knife, on the side that's already open. With the knife acting as a fulcrum, that can pull the other side apart so things can get going again.

Going slowly and keeping an eye on the opening, if you see a splinter of top wood starting to cling to the rib, you can stop, and come back from the other direction.

Releasing the top from the upper block calls for all your good sense, patience, and a long thin frosting spatula.

barretone - Posted - 12/26/2009:  21:45:03

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You will find that the glue at the neck block and lower block is often harder to "crack." This is where I heat my spatula with a propane torch, just a little. It helps melt the glue. Work slowly!

Randy

barretone - Posted - 12/26/2009:  21:45:16

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You will find that the glue at the neck block and lower block is often harder to "crack." This is where I heat my spatula with a propane torch, just a little. It helps melt the glue. Work slowly!

Randy

Barry1963 - Posted - 09/08/2010:  11:51:32

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Just removed my first top plate. Did a search and found this. As always, the FHO has the advice I needed. One thing I found was a little back and forth gentle wiggling while pulling the plate way from the neck joint helped to separate it.

picked this one up real cheap, basically a basket case so I thought it would be the perfect learning tool. finger board was coming loose which came off real easy. The neck is also pulling away were the heel meets the back plate. Any advice on how I should go about this repair, should I remove the neck and if so any hints on doing this right ? Or can the neck be reglued with out removing ?

transplant - Posted - 09/08/2010:  12:17:40

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If the neck is solid in its block, there will not be movement between the ribs and the neck. If you can see or feel movement there, best to take it off and reset.

Barry1963 - Posted - 09/08/2010:  12:29:10

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quote:

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Originally posted by transplant

If the neck is solid in its block, there will not be movement between the ribs and the neck. If you can see or feel movement there, best to take it off and reset.

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Seems to be solid to the block. just separated where the heel meets the bottom plate. seems to line up good when I squezze it together with my fingers, so Im guessing I work in some hide glue and clamp ?

transplant - Posted - 09/08/2010:  13:38:16

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Seems like a plan. for something critical like that I warm up the area with the 150 watt halogen lamp that toasts my workspace. Closer than about eight inches risks blistering the varnish if left too long, so I keep an eye on it and check frequently with fingertips.